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Epitaph

Name: Epitaph
Rating: 3.4

5.10- YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British

Routes in Flying Buttress

L › R R › L A › Z

	A-M aidline T A2-3
	All Systems Go 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
	Anvil Spire North Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Arch Enemy T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Epitaph T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	It's a Breeze T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
	Queen's Bishop T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
	Technicolor Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R

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Type:	Trad, 3 pitches
FA:	Mike Lawson '84
Page Views:	11,996 total · 67/month
Shared By:	Mike on Mar 29, 2010 · Updates
Admins:	Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

This is a great route up a huge corner then out an equally huge roof!
It gets shade in the am & a mix of sun & shade in the pm.

Most people only do the first 3 pitches then rap, which is what we did. As the guidebook says: "If you are going to the top make sure your affairs are in order." If anyone here has climbed all the way to the top please contribute the info.

P1: Start up easier ground through some loose rock to good rock in a nice corner. Ascend corner to a gear belay on a ledge. (5.9+)

P2: Continue up corner to a bolted belay just a bit before the roof. (5.9) It MIGHT be possible to link the first 2 pitches with a 70m rope, lots of slings, and a strong leader.

P3: Continue up a short bit to the huge roof. Traverse right for forever to an awkward but good rest in a big pod, then continue right some more to the lip. Pull around the lip (#5 Camalot, #4 can also work at the very lip) then up cracks for another 20-30' to a bolted anchor. (5.9+)

Location

IMHO the best access is via the Cow Pies trail off of Schnebley Hill Rd. Follow the Cow Pies trail to the Flying Buttress. Continue on it as it contours west around the Flying Buttress, passing Arch Enemy and then Technicolor Corner. After Technicolor Corner, contour up and right over the obvious saddle, then continue around the West Face of the Flying Buttress (either up high or down low on a trail) to the obvious huge corner that leads to an obvious huge roof. This is Epitaph.

Protection

Bring all your #3 Camalots on this one. I would recommend the following: 1 set of nuts, 1 set of cams from small thru #.5 camalot, doubles of .75 thru #2 camalots, at least 4 (or 5 or 6?) #3 camalots, 2 #4 Camalots, 1 #5 camalot and lots of slings. Yes that is a bunch of gear, but maybe I'm just weak. 2 double rope rappels get you to the ground.