All Locations > Arizona > Northern Arizona > Sedona Area > Sedona > Moose's Butte Area > Flying Buttress
Avg: 3.4 from 31 votes
Routes in Flying Buttress
|A-M aidline T A2-3|
|All Systems Go 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C3|
|Anvil Spire North Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Arch Enemy T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Epitaph T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|It's a Breeze T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13|
|Queen's Bishop T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R|
|Technicolor Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R|
|Type:||Trad, 3 pitches|
|FA:||Mike Lawson '84|
|Page Views:||7,433 total, 79/month|
|Shared By:||Mike on Mar 29, 2010|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick|
DescriptionThis is a great route up a huge corner then out an equally huge roof. If MP.com had an option to rate this 5.9+++ I would have rated it so. It gets shade in the am & a mix of sun & shade in the pm.
Most people only do the first 3 pitches then rap, which is what we did. As the guidebook says: "If you are going to the top make sure your affairs are in order." If anyone here has climbed all the way to the top please contribute the info.
P1: Start up easier ground through some loose rock to good rock in a nice corner. Ascend corner to a gear belay on a ledge. (5.9+)
P2: Continue up corner to a bolted belay just a bit before the roof. (5.9) It MIGHT be possible to link the first 2 pitches with a 70m rope, lots of slings, and a strong leader.
P3: Continue up a short bit to the huge roof. Traverse right for forever to an awkward but good rest in a big pod, then continue right some more to the lip. Pull around the lip (#4 Camalot) then up cracks for another 20-30' to a bolted anchor. (5.9+)