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Routes in Spragueasorus Boulder (aka Underworld Boulder)

6B Crawford V2+ 5+
Nowhere Man V7 7A+
Pyramid Power V8 7B
Satan's Choice V12 8A+
Spragueasorus V5+ 6C+
Summer Daze V4 6B
Waiting for No One V9 7C
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Type: Boulder
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,318 total · 33/month
Shared By: Jeremiah Johnson on Dec 25, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route

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There are a number of different ways to do this problem, and they are all pretty hard. Start sitting on the obvious crimp rail and head up and left. Some people use the small crimp in the horizontal crack, some people use a shallow undercling, and everybody uses the unusual pyramid shaped hold to eventually grab the jug on the arete and top out left. A great problem and one for which it may be beneficial to be a little shorter for a change.


Head left from the Umbrella boulder, then follow a faint trail up and right to a smallish cluster of boulders. On the right is the pit with the very clean overhanging face. This is the left-hand line.




Ian McAfee
Concord, NH
Ian McAfee   Concord, NH
For my height (5'11), first move is hard but the second move is the crux, I couldn't high step right foot on the crimp rail start and had to just pick low feet and controlled chuck to the hold after the pyramid. Played around with the undercling beta but couldn't make it feel good. Felt like there could be easier beta maybe but I couldn't do it. Amazing problem either way, not to be missed. Apr 14, 2014
Phil Schuld
Holderness, NH
Phil Schuld   Holderness, NH
At 5' 8", matching my foot on the start hold wasn't too problematic. I could definitely see that move being really tough for taller folks though. What a fantastic set of moves. Aug 11, 2014
Great climb. Finally got it today. I did a hand foot match on the start hold on the inside of my hand and then matched on the pyramid before I went up, it felt super solid. Apr 19, 2015

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