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Routes in Spragueasorus Boulder (aka Underworld Boulder)

6B Crawford V2+ 5+
Nowhere Man V7 7A+
Pyramid Power V8 7B
Satan's Choice V12 8A+
Spragueasorus V5+ 6C+
Summer Daze V4 6B
Waiting for No One V9 7C
Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: Brett Meyers
Page Views: 1,068 total, 12/month
Shared By: matthewWallace on Apr 21, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

Start standing, matched on the shelf about eight feet or so left of 'Spragueasorus'. The crux comes in the first couple of moves, first with a high step/heel onto the shelf and then using a tiny crimp (and possibly a smaller one below first) to set up for a committing move to a good hold. This move is the hardest physically and is made somewhat harder by the prospect of falling backwards onto the sloping boulder below. From there, the climbing ease somewhat in difficulty, but the last move to the upper lip is a committing one high off the deck over a very bad landing. Failing to latch the lip would not be good...

If you can get past all of that, and summon enough courage, this climb is defintely worth doing. It would be one of the best at the Blackjacks if not for the poor landing.

(descrpition by Christian Prellwitz)

Location

8 feet left of Spraqueasorus.

Protection

Pads and a good spotter. Not a good fall.

Photos

Tristan Baldwin
Amherst, NH
 
Tristan Baldwin   Amherst, NH
 
Beta: Another way to do this problem is to make the first left hand move then lock off to the higher of the two bad crimps. Switch from a heal to a toe on the ledge and mantle up so that both feet are matched on the start hold. I then reached left hand to the obvious crimp on the face (about eye level due to my body position). Then right hand to the good hold at the lip. I am 5'10" with a +0/1 but this beta would work for someone of any height (possibly not very tall). Oct 13, 2014
this problem is incredible! great crimps and the landing is not bad. for a moment there I wished the crimps on this wall were up on the sport routes up the hill...

the moves after the big move are not so bad. I cleaned some more holds (and feet) out left and the line still finishes direct, there is just no scary committing move to the top anymore. all static.

I definitely disagree with this problem being sketchy or having a "bad landing". after falling on the crux move a couple times with very little momentum and then a couple times with a lot of momentum I either fell directly on to the pad sitting on the elevated pedestal moss type thing or hit that pad first before sliding back in the hole as christian said. I had two pads and no spotter and pretty much just knew blowing the topout would have been bad but all the other moves were well protected. if you like crimps...get on it!! Aug 28, 2014
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
 
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
 
I used a heel on the shelf but I am six feet tall, my shorter friends used a toe as it allowed them to get up high over there leg. Jul 26, 2014
JamieRe
Providence, RI
JamieRe   Providence, RI
Christian I think my problem may have been using a heel on the shelf instead of the toe that you were using in the video. I'll try it again that way because locking off on that tiny right hand may be out of my price range haha

Thanks!! Jul 25, 2014
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V7
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  V7
Ian-

No problem. I enjoy putting the videos together.

Let me assure you, there are plenty of climbs that I struggle on. But, thank you for the compliment.

Maybe someone will put together a video of the problems I can't do so I can steal their beta! Please!! :) Jul 24, 2014
Ian McAfee
Concord, NH
 
Ian McAfee   Concord, NH
 
Tried this for a little bit solo one pad on Saturday, falls really aren't bad but man the crimps on this wall are miserable. Couldn't figure out good beta but after seeing Christian's video the bump to the good hold will work I think. Christian I don't know how you make every possible style look soooo easy, thanks for the videos man! Great problem. Jul 20, 2014
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V7
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  V7
Jamie-

Obviously, my beta is what you see in the video. :)

But, I don't think the move is that long. It's really about how much you can lock off the lower crimp because your weight is on such a good foot for the move to the better crimp.

So yah, I thought it was mostly about crimp strength and flexibility. And less about reach.

Glad to see people are getting on this line. Jul 10, 2014
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
 
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
 
Jaime, I did the bump beta, that is in the video above. My friend Jonny locked off the small right hand crimp and went left into the good hold using real scrunched up high feet, felt impossible that way being 6 feet tall with a plus one reach... Jul 9, 2014
JamieRe
Providence, RI
JamieRe   Providence, RI
I totally agree matthewWallace i was working it over the weekend and the fal at the crux moves really aren't bad but MAN that crux move is LONG for my 5'7" -2 ape index haha.

I was trying a right hand bump off the small crimp to the "good" hold. Any other betas out there? Jul 7, 2014
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
 
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
 
After climbing this route, I want to encourage people to get on it! It is a classy line and the falls really are not that bad. A fall going for the lip could be sketchy but with a good spotter I don't think it would be to bad. Jun 21, 2014
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V7
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  V7
Some video of the problem (starts at 2:07):

vimeo.com/45004357 Jul 1, 2012
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V7
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  V7
No worries Matt. Glad I could help out.

Luke-- You're probably right. None of the falls I had, which were all at the low crux, were really very bad. It certainly looks more intimidating than it really ends up being. You mostly just slide back down into the hole. But it definitely was in the back of my mind while climbing. Three pads worked perfectly- two for the hole and one for the sloping boulder. However, I wouldn't want to test a fall from near the top! Jun 25, 2012
Luke W.
Prescott
  V7
Luke W.   Prescott
  V7
The landing is made safe with two or three pads. Arguably no more dangerous than any other problem. Jun 23, 2012
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
 
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
 
Thanks for the better description Christian, I made it the description for the route! Jun 23, 2012
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V7
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  V7
This climb is quite good. It would be even better if it didn't have an awkward and dangerous landing. It climbs somewhat like 'Spragueasorus' but with smaller crimps and more committing moves.

Here's a more detailed description for those interested:

Start standing, matched on the shelf about eight feet or so left of 'Spragueasorus'. The crux comes in the first couple of moves, first with a high step/heel onto the shelf and then using a tiny crimp (and possibly a smaller one below first) to set up for a committing move to a good hold. This move is the hardest physically and is made somewhat harder by the prospect of falling backwards onto the sloping boulder below. From there, the climbing ease somewhat in difficulty, but the last move to the upper lip is a committing one high off the deck over a very bad landing. Failing to latch the lip would not be good...

If you can get past all of that, and summon enough courage, this climb is defintely worth doing. It would be one of the best at the Blackjacks if not for the poor landing. Jun 20, 2012
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
 
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
 
Im not sure who envisioned this line but, it wouldnt surprise me if it was, he has had an impact everywhere he has climbed it does seem! Oct 17, 2011
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Isn't this a Brett Meyers problem? Oct 17, 2011
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
I always thought the link up of the start of Spragueasorus into and finishing on this route would be good. Anybody done it? Jan 5, 2011