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Routes in Spragueasorus Boulder (aka Underworld Boulder)

6B Crawford V2+ 5+
Nowhere Man V7 7A+
Pyramid Power V8 7B
Satan's Choice V12 8A+
Spragueasorus V5+ 6C+
Summer Daze V4 6B
Waiting for No One V9 7C
Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: Who do you think??
Page Views: 4,300 total, 34/month
Shared By: Ladd on May 15, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


41 Opinions

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Description

Ouch!
Crimp and power your way up this demanding face using deadpoints and precise feet.
The topout is huge (thank the goddess)

Way Hard for the grade(hence the V5+)

Location

Away from the trailside of this boulder. climbs straight up the face.

Protection

Pad and an attentive spotter to grab you before you hit the rock with your back and before you slide down into the pit and bash you face on the boulder.
Kevin O'Mally
Philadelphia,pa
Kevin O'Mally   Philadelphia,pa
Just got this one, I do use the arete knob and the hold under the arete knob, and I started with left hand on the good shelf above the side sloper and right hand on the bottom shelf below the sloper, I also have beta that cuts out the deadpoint to the first crappy crimp, pm if you want it, I still think it goes at 5/5+ more of a 5 with the no deadpoint move. Very fun , worth doing imo. Oct 9, 2017
Graham O.  
 
This thing is so good! Definitely one of the best boulder problems in Rumney, for sure. Aug 10, 2016
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  V5+
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  V5+
Climbed this line again today, it is really hard to come to Blackjack and not take a lap on this classic! One of the best boulder problems anywhere. Dec 13, 2015
B-Mkll Mackall
Bozeman, MT
 
B-Mkll Mackall   Bozeman, MT
 
Is there any beta on the climb that actually uses the arete to the right? It's such a cool feature, and I'm sure would be a quality line by itself... Oct 13, 2013
B-Mkll Mackall
Bozeman, MT
 
B-Mkll Mackall   Bozeman, MT
 
Finally got this problem today! First try in the pouring rain. So satisfying to tick this looooong-standing project off. Aug 29, 2013
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V5
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  V5
Arguably contrived as one could easily use the arete for some of the moves to make it easier. Also, the sit start doesn't really add anything quality wise to the climb (would be as good or better starting matched on the shelf). But, ignoring those small flaws, this is an incredibly aesthetic climb with perfect crimps up a beautiful wall. A must do! Jun 20, 2012
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
Nice work Matt! Apr 25, 2011
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  V5+
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  V5+
Finally sent today! A very gratifying send. The beta is very precise, but once you get it down it makes sense at the grade. One of the best boulder problems I have ever done. Apr 25, 2011
Jesse Coburn
Manchester, NH
Jesse Coburn   Manchester, NH
yeah its tricky. when i did the start my elbows and knees were practically touching. its a nice warm welcome to a great problem :) Apr 13, 2009
Lanky
Tired
 
Lanky   Tired
 
Start matched on the sloper under the little overhang on the right edge of the boulder.

(edited to correct "left" to "right") Apr 13, 2009
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  V5+
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  V5+
any beta on the sit start or where is the sit start? Apr 1, 2009
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
Yes Dec 3, 2008
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  V5+
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  V5+
Is this a sit start? Dec 3, 2008