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Routes in Middle

Dirty Corner (unknown) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
I Have a Dream S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lucid Dreaming S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Nerve Damage T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Plotinus T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rama T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Scientist, The T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: D. Hare, C. Peisker, 1986
Page Views: 521 total, 4/month
Shared By: Tony B on Nov 20, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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An obscure route relative to the more recent additions to the wall, this one is not clearly outlined by bolts or chalk. Start up off the ground and climb a crux slab past a bolt. This is rated 5.11a in the Rossiter book, but feels more like 5.10. 'The Scientist' is considerably harder. Head up and left with small nuts and cams ready. While the first descent was no doubt done in some other fashion, presently the retreat is quite easy. Work over to the anchors on 'The Scientist' and rap off.


Just left of The Scientist on the left-facing wall at Plotinus. Start on a slab and then work up and left to a shallow corner. The topo on this site guides you to finish as for Plotinus, but the original option is still left of there.


A single bolt on a slab is used to access a crack system that will take a few nuts and small cams. I last climbed it in 2003 and the precise size needed presently escapes me. The protection is poor up in the corner there, but the difficulty has been considerably decreased. If you felt solid getting to it, you should be OK.


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Derek Lawrence   Bailey
You asked for a vote...
Mine is leave it as is. Sack it up or don't do it (or just TR it).
The route's name is "Nerve Damage"... you gotta expect some excitement! Aug 13, 2008
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
My personal answer is that it is not a question so much for the community, but for Hare and Peisker, who did the route 22 years ago.
But if you are collecting opinions, I think the route is fine. I question why you think retrobolting it is necessary? It is top-ropable already. Aug 13, 2008
Joshua Merriam
Boulder, CO
Joshua Merriam   Boulder, CO
TR'd this line after leading the Scientist. that bolt is pretty darn high off the ground, and nary any good pro to be had before it. Once clipped, the climbing is fairly easy (for a tall strong guy) till pro is available. My question for the community is: Could another bolt or two be added to this route to create a safe (IMHO) 5.10 route for others to enjoy? Aug 12, 2008