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Nerve Damage
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British PG13
Avg: 1.4 from 10
votes
Routes in Middle
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Dirty Corner (unknown) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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I Have a Dream S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Lucid Dreaming S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Nerve Damage T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Plotinus T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Rama T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Scientist, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | D. Hare, C. Peisker, 1986 |
| Page Views: | 1,198 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Nov 20, 2007 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Closure - now open
Details
From Rick Vermeil: they have finished construction on the Boulder Falls project, and it has been open to tourists and climbers for at least a couple years now. They have legitimized the climber access trail with signage to go up and over the barriers they created to prevent erosion on the west side of the canyon.
Previously: from the Flatirons Climbing Council: as of February 2018 per OSMP Dream Canyon - Boulder Falls is closed to the climbing community. More specifically, contractors will begin mobilizing equipment into Boulder Falls next week (February 12, 2018). They plan to chopper everything in from Sugarloaf Dr. No parking will be available at the Boulder Falls pullout for the duration for the project, as it will be the staging area for equipment and materials. Boulder Falls will be closed 7 days a week until construction is complete (estimated date is June), and that Dream Canyon and nearby crags by way of Boulder Falls will not be accessible to the public.
Previously: from the Flatirons Climbing Council: as of February 2018 per OSMP Dream Canyon - Boulder Falls is closed to the climbing community. More specifically, contractors will begin mobilizing equipment into Boulder Falls next week (February 12, 2018). They plan to chopper everything in from Sugarloaf Dr. No parking will be available at the Boulder Falls pullout for the duration for the project, as it will be the staging area for equipment and materials. Boulder Falls will be closed 7 days a week until construction is complete (estimated date is June), and that Dream Canyon and nearby crags by way of Boulder Falls will not be accessible to the public.
Access Issue: Access now open
Details
From Rick Vermeil: they have finished construction on the Boulder Falls project, and it has been open to tourists and climbers for at least a couple years now. They have legitimized the climber access trail with signage to go up and over the barriers they created to prevent erosion on the west side of the canyon.
The Boulder Falls Trail was be closed to the public since the 2013 floods for a few years. Accessing the climbing areas in Lower Dream Canyon (Plotinus Wall) from the Boulder Falls Trail was off limits. In addition, the slopes above the Boulder Falls Trail were closed to access.
Dropping into Lower Dream Canyon from the Upper Dream Canyon access point crosses private property and is not permitted by the landowner. Previously, climbers accessing this area from Upper Dream Canyon were trespassing.
Fortunately, with great work and cooperation, this situation seems to have been resolved peacefully.
Per Dan Gozdz: I reached out to OSMP and received the following reply about access: yes, there is now a designated climbing access trail through Boulder Falls that follows the old footpath through the Keyhole. Enjoy!
The Boulder Falls Trail was be closed to the public since the 2013 floods for a few years. Accessing the climbing areas in Lower Dream Canyon (Plotinus Wall) from the Boulder Falls Trail was off limits. In addition, the slopes above the Boulder Falls Trail were closed to access.
Dropping into Lower Dream Canyon from the Upper Dream Canyon access point crosses private property and is not permitted by the landowner. Previously, climbers accessing this area from Upper Dream Canyon were trespassing.
Fortunately, with great work and cooperation, this situation seems to have been resolved peacefully.
Per Dan Gozdz: I reached out to OSMP and received the following reply about access: yes, there is now a designated climbing access trail through Boulder Falls that follows the old footpath through the Keyhole. Enjoy!
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2023 - lifted as of 7/26/23
Details
The U.S. Forest lifted closures 7/26/23.
From W. McCurry: As of 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock remains closed more info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress & Security Risk.
Effective through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the BCC to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise young.
Federal & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures. Signs will be posted at key access points into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 month closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock climbing area in BC.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong and healthy eaglet this year,” said wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, but unfortunately only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but cooperation by climbers with the closures are crucial to the eagles’ success each season.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, the nest site stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made unused areas reopened in April.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress & Security Risk in BC.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal and state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, and wildlife professionals under an agreement with the Forest Service enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest and the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, and the public. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures and leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office at 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock remains closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open to activities. Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers....
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
From W. McCurry: As of 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock remains closed more info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress & Security Risk.
Effective through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the BCC to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise young.
Federal & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures. Signs will be posted at key access points into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 month closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock climbing area in BC.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong and healthy eaglet this year,” said wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, but unfortunately only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but cooperation by climbers with the closures are crucial to the eagles’ success each season.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, the nest site stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made unused areas reopened in April.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress & Security Risk in BC.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal and state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, and wildlife professionals under an agreement with the Forest Service enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest and the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, and the public. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures and leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office at 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock remains closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open to activities. Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers....
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Description
An obscure route relative to the more recent additions to the wall, this one is not clearly outlined by bolts or chalk. Start up off the ground and climb a crux slab past a bolt. This is rated 5.11a in the Rossiter book, but feels more like 5.10. 'The Scientist' is considerably harder. Head up and left with small nuts and cams ready. While the first descent was no doubt done in some other fashion, presently the retreat is quite easy. Work over to the anchors on 'The Scientist' and rap off.
Location
Just left of The Scientist on the left-facing wall at Plotinus. Start on a slab and then work up and left to a shallow corner. The topo on this site guides you to finish as for Plotinus, but the original option is still left of there.
Protection
A single bolt on a slab is used to access a crack system that will take a few nuts and small cams. I last climbed it in 2003 and the precise size needed presently escapes me. The protection is poor up in the corner there, but the difficulty has been considerably decreased. If you felt solid getting to it, you should be OK.
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