Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Middle

Dirty Corner (unknown) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
I Have a Dream S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lucid Dreaming S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Nerve Damage T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Plotinus T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rama T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Scientist, The T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, Sport
FA: Bob D'Antonio & Vaino Kodas
Page Views: 258 total, 1/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Feb 1, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


20 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Closed Details
Seasonal Closure Details

Description

Fifty feet right of Lucky Strikes on a south-facing wall is a shallow, overhanging left-facing corner. This is Rama. Climb the corner past three bolts up through a short overhanging finger crack. Gain a ledge and follow a right-facing corner up to a steep face to a two-bolt anchor.

Protection

Three bolts protect the initial corner, small to mid-size gear for the upper section.

Photos

Kirk Woerner
  5.10c
Kirk Woerner  
  5.10c
I stayed in the corner and stemmed all the way up. Seemed like one dicey move to get to the last bolt but it wasn't too bad. Above, I used one #1 Camalot and a gray Micro Camalot in the finger crack (.5?) My partner thought it was going to be a clip up and didn't bring any gear. She tied knots in slings and sent. Nov 15, 2004
Ben Mottinger

  5.10c
Ben Mottinger    
  5.10c
I stayed in the corner including the crack at the roof, but still consider it only 10c. Going out left at any point seems off route in a sport climbing sense anyway.

I used a green (smallest) Splitter 2cam for the last section to the anchors. Get some if you still can! Dec 8, 2003
Totally esthetic climbing, use good footwork straight up the corner past the bolts, then finger jam up the crack - awesome! Went well for me... hard 10? A handfull of small TCU's to Camalot Juniors, or stoppers if you prefer, are ample to protect the rest of this great climb. Oct 18, 2003
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10b
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10b
The top needs narrow cams or RPs. Micro-Camalots are too wide to fit in the low profile crack up there. I consider myself crafty with gear, and I had all 4 micros... but I had to run it out. I had a ton of nuts in the crack/flake below though. A ledge-fall maybe, but not a grounder. I guess one has the option of stepping left and clipping bolts on The Scientist to finish there.

Good line, but a little flakey still. Needs some more cleaning down low.

I could have gone straight up the corner, but since I was already stemming to the left (might my right shoulder on the right wall), it seems natural that what's in for feet is in for hands, so if someone reaches out there, they'd seem on route to me. The climb felt like 10b. Jul 23, 2003
Scott Conner
Lyons, CO
Scott Conner   Lyons, CO
Peter, your first comment above leads one to believe that if you don't have RPs, your only other option is to run it out. Not the case at all. Maybe you don't own Aliens but most of the Front Range climbers I know do own at least a set. Small TCUs, micro-Camalots and small stoppers would probably work fine as well. Jul 15, 2003
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
As someone lacking a quiver of Aliens, I stand by my comment. The climbing may be easy but without trick (and expensive) gear it may feel exposed. Jul 15, 2003
Scott Conner
Lyons, CO
Scott Conner   Lyons, CO
Stay in the corner if you want... Move left between the 2nd and 3rd bolt. I've done it both ways now and it doesn't matter how you do this pitch, it's a fine route. Probably my favorite on the crag so far (out of about 9). I'll agree it's a little contrived, and it's a committing clip for the 3rd bolt if you stay in the corner, but, fun either way.

For the gear, no RP's needed. You can plug in the smallest thru the red alien in reverse order (starting with the red); all pretty bomber placements.

One last note about this route: I find it pretty funky to get to the first bolt. If you blow the move and come off before the clip, you and your belayer could end up in the creek (far below) if said belayer isn't anchored in. Might be the same for any route along this sloping ledge but this is the only route I've climbed on this side of the wall. Be careful. Jul 13, 2003
The ground to the left is just too close to be avoided on this route. I don't think you should rate the route by calling this stuff (two feet to the left and never out of arm's reach from the bolts) off limits. That's just too contrived to make sense. So, it's not 5.11. 10a might be a bit low, but a lot closer.

Also, the gear section above the bolts is probably 5.8. I placed two yellow Aliens and a green Alien. I could have placed probably eight Aliens if I had wanted. This isn't dicey or thin. No need for RPs or even stoppers if you don't want them.

Ray's idea to head right looks fun. A bit more rope drag that way, but probably no problem.

This was a fun route, but too short. Cool moves in the dihedral and up the steep section. Jul 11, 2003
This is certainly one of those routes which tempts with nearby easier ground, but you are still funneled into a steep section past the last bolt where most aspirants will certainly want to place some gear.

The dicey upper section can easily be avoided by doing the soon-to-be-popular "Rama Dreaming" linkup. Power over the aforementioned section, place a good stopper, then shoot out right to the obvious bolt on Lucid Dreaming - it is maybe 5.9 to the chains, and all bolts. Apr 11, 2003
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
I think if you follow the bolts directly up the corner, it's 5.11 but if you climb the obvious easy terrain to the left it's about 10a. This would be a really good moderate pitch except for some fairly thin pro up high. Bring RPs or run it out. Apr 11, 2003
Guys...I like it a lot but if you're calling this 5.11 you might consider medication...S.K. Nov 8, 2002