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Routes in Middle

Dirty Corner (unknown) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
I Have a Dream S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lucid Dreaming S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Nerve Damage T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Plotinus T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rama T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Scientist, The T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: J. Erikson and Partner, 1974?
Page Views: 1,040 total, 6/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jul 21, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Closed Details
Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This route is a diagonal crack that supercedes the more popular 'The Scientist' on the big left-facing wall at the right end of the Plotinus wall. Start on the right edge on jugs and work your way up the arete to step left on the face where you can start getting good stoppers with minimal rope drag. Work up and left on the diagonal crack for some way, passing great crimps and fingerlocks with thin footwork. There is a little vegitation on the line. You can finish by going left all of the way to the corner (Aka Nerve Damage) or as the crack runs out, go straight up the face left of the top of The Scientist (5.9, S) with little gear.The line is good, and is probably 5.10a. Placing stoppers is a little pumpy, and if you 'dialed in' on the other 5.10's on this wall, this one will feel a little harder. A decent line though, despite needing a little weeding.

Protection

I did this on a full set of nuts and a .4" TCU. A full set of TCU's would make the gear easeir to place and maybe more secure in some spots of the diagonal crack. Additional gear up to 2.5" cams can be used, but is not necessary.

Photos

In reference to "...despite needing a little weeding" , I give you this:

When the farmer cleans out his ditches, I mourn the loss of many a flower which he calls a weed. -Henry David Throeau Jul 25, 2003