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Routes in Middle

Dirty Corner (unknown) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
I Have a Dream S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lucid Dreaming S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Nerve Damage T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Plotinus T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rama T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Scientist, The T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Sport, TR, 40 ft
FA: Bob D'Antonio and Vaino Kodas
Page Views: 856 total · 4/month
Shared By: Tony B on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Leo Paik, John McNamee

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description [Edit]

This route is found on the lowest tier of Polotinus Wall, leading up to just below the base of Boulder Quartz System. Follow the line of 4 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor with welded cold shuts. The route seems to be about 5.11. If the route cleans up, it will probably feel 5.10. I was scaling a lot off with the feet though. My partner, who is/was pretty solid on 10's, had a hard time with it for the same reason.
The difficulty may come more from the scaling, dirty rock down low than from anything inherent to the moves. I felt more likely to slip off than fall off. The line is short and of dubious quality relative to the others at this cliff. A must do only for the true "route collector."

Protection [Edit]

4 bolts to a bolted anchor with set of welded cold-shuts.You could toprope this route by clipping the top from above, just below the ledge as for the start of Boulder Quartz System.

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Ken Cangi
Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.11a
Ken Cangi   Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.11a
It's short with an interesting boulder problem start. I found some graceful beta off of a tenuous left sidepull. Foot placement and body-tension are important. I thought it was a better warmup for Lucid Dreaming than Mr. Sandman, for instance. Also more convenient. It was pretty dirty, so I gave it a decent brushing. The bolts are placed well, and the crux is engaging enough that it deserves two stars, imo. Jun 27, 2014

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