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Routes in Middle

Dirty Corner (unknown) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
I Have a Dream S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lucid Dreaming S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Nerve Damage T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Plotinus T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rama T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Scientist, The T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, TR, 40 ft
FA: Bob D'Antonio and Vaino Kodas
Page Views: 845 total · 4/month
Shared By: Tony B on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


12 Opinions

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Description

This route is found on the lowest tier of Polotinus Wall, leading up to just below the base of Boulder Quartz System. Follow the line of 4 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor with welded cold shuts. The route seems to be about 5.11. If the route cleans up, it will probably feel 5.10. I was scaling a lot off with the feet though. My partner, who is/was pretty solid on 10's, had a hard time with it for the same reason.
The difficulty may come more from the scaling, dirty rock down low than from anything inherent to the moves. I felt more likely to slip off than fall off. The line is short and of dubious quality relative to the others at this cliff. A must do only for the true "route collector."

Protection

4 bolts to a bolted anchor with set of welded cold-shuts.You could toprope this route by clipping the top from above, just below the ledge as for the start of Boulder Quartz System.

Photos

Ken Cangi
Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.11a
Ken Cangi   Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.11a
It's short with an interesting boulder problem start. I found some graceful beta off of a tenuous left sidepull. Foot placement and body-tension are important. I thought it was a better warmup for Lucid Dreaming than Mr. Sandman, for instance. Also more convenient. It was pretty dirty, so I gave it a decent brushing. The bolts are placed well, and the crux is engaging enough that it deserves two stars, imo. Jun 27, 2014

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