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Routes in North Peak, East Face

Bandito T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bear's Delight T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Desperado T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Finger Stinger T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Great Impostor T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gunsite To North Peak T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Helter Skelter T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Keds T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lichen or Leave It T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lichening Bolt T,S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Nubbin Drubbin S,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Psychoprophylaxis T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Really Flaky T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Roux T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Rox Salt T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Streptococcus T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unrelenting Verticality T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Hunt Prothro
Page Views: 737 total, 6/month
Shared By: Jeremy Steck on Nov 8, 2007
Admins: Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

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Description

This is a relatively light 5.9 by Seneca standards. Follow the left trending finger crack to reach a corner. Follow the corner to reach a ledge. Fun moves, well protected.

Location

Just uphill from Desperado. About 20 Ft. Right of Desperado Direct.

Protection

Great pro, 1" or less.

Photos

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There is an old pin on the traverse that is super loose. It would hold body weight, but probably not a fall. Sep 25, 2017
Mark Maier
  5.9+
Mark Maier  
  5.9+
I agree that this is not "light" for a 5.9, not even for Seneca. It is considerably harder than Desperado, with which it shares much of the route. There is plenty of protection, although placing it on the traverse can require some really interesting positions to get a stance. Be ready to work one-handed. Feb 21, 2016
nancyjo
Nantmeal Village, Pennsylvania
nancyjo   Nantmeal Village, Pennsylvania
I agree. It is hard for a 5.9. The upper corner is fun. The traverse section packs a punch. Dec 16, 2015
Seth Derr
harrisburg, pa
 
Seth Derr   harrisburg, pa
 
I'm with climbinbob. I think this is a hard 5.9, even for Seneca. Lots of fun though and well protected. Jun 16, 2015
Contrary to the description, I don't think this is an easy 9. The traverse move getting to the corner has very poor feet, and the beginning moves up the corner are difficult and off-balance. I've climbed a lot of 9s at Seneca, and I think this is one of the more difficult. All that being said, it is still a very worthwhile climb. Nov 5, 2014