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Routes in North Peak, East Face

Bandito T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bear's Delight T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Desperado T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Finger Stinger T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Great Impostor T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gunsite To North Peak T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Helter Skelter T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Keds T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lichen or Leave It T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lichening Bolt T,S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Nubbin Drubbin S,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Psychoprophylaxis T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Really Flaky T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Roux T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Rox Salt T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Streptococcus T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unrelenting Verticality T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, TR, 70 ft
FA: Sandy Fleming
Page Views: 77 total, 15/month
Shared By: Andy Weinmann on Jun 23, 2017
Admins: Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

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Description

Nice addition to the area. Not a 5.9 as it's called in the new guide.

From the anchor at the top of Rox Salt, step out left and traverse about 10 ft onto the ledge and head up towards the first bolt. A couple of unprotected 5.6-ish moves gets you to the bolt. Careful of the hollow flake. Follow the line of bolts. Gear placement possible between bolts 2-3...#2 cam or a medium size hex (BD #8/9) should drop in there.

Two noticeable cruxes-between bolt 1-2 and further up near the top by bolt 4-5. Two bolt anchor with rap rings at the top. First one involves a hard sidepull with thin feet...gotta get the sequence right. The second is on small crimps.

You can rig a TR on this by climbing Really Flaky or most of Roux. Rock quality is mostly good throughout. You could probably escape the upper crux by moving further right to the sketchy large flakes of Really Flaky or to the left and easier holds on the blunt arete/corner.

Location

Starts on a ledge left of the bolts atop Rox Salt or right of the sling tree atop Unrelenting Verticality.

Protection

Quickdraws and either a #2 cam and/or a medium hex.

Photos

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Andy Weinmann
Silver Spring, MD
 
Andy Weinmann   Silver Spring, MD
 
Thanks for the clarification Sandy and the nice work on the line. Updated the text. Sounds like it was originally a squeeze-job on the 2nd pitches of Really Flaky and Unrelenting Vertically. Your line makes it a much more enjoyable link-up from Unrelenting, Rox Salt or Really Flaky. Sep 28, 2017
Just to clarify, the second pitch of Unrelenting Verticality follows the crack system just to the right of the second pitch of Really Flakey - so these two routes actually cross-over each other right at the fixed anchor at the end of the first pitches of Really Flakey and Rox Salt. They are both actually good pitches, and should be climbed much more often than they are. Nubbin Drubbin is a completely independent pitch. However, it is frequently climbed now as a direct finish to both Unrelenting Verticality and Rox Salt. Combining it with the first pitch of Really Flakey as a direct finish might also be possible, but rope-drag might be an issue without using long slings on some of the gear on the first pitch. Sep 1, 2017