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Routes in North Peak, East Face

Bandito T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bear's Delight T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Desperado T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Finger Stinger T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Great Impostor T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gunsite To North Peak T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Helter Skelter T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Keds T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lichen or Leave It T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lichening Bolt T,S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Nubbin Drubbin S,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Psychoprophylaxis T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Really Flaky T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Roux T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Rox Salt T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Streptococcus T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unrelenting Verticality T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Greg Hand, Hunt Prothro, Herb Laeger
Page Views: 1,764 total · 13/month
Shared By: Jeremy Steck on Nov 12, 2007
Admins: Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

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Description

Climb up the face to gain access to a left facing corner with a fingers crack in the dihedral. Climb the corner until the crack stops(crux). From this point if you continue straight up, you will join the finish of Great Impostor. Instead, place some good gear and head right and up aiming for a large ledge with a tree. The last 20 Ft is much easier than the rest of the route, but there's not much gear. Although the last section is somewhat overhanging, you are on really positive holds, just don't stop and gun it for the ledge. There's a second pitch but most parties only do the first.

Location

Start beneath an obvious left facing corner about 20 ft to the right of Great Impostor.

Protection

Most small cams ( < .75") and nuts. A little thin on gear at the top. Rappel from tree at the end of the first pitch.

Photos

Jeff McLeod
  5.10 PG13
Jeff McLeod  
  5.10 PG13
A cool route, flagrantly sandbagged, with a serious upper section. The crux for me did not take place at the end of the crack, but pulling over the bulge up and left of the first overhang.

The last 20-30 feet of this route isn't just thin on gear - I found not a single serviceable piece, and the climbing is nontrivial. It's vertical and involved, and if you feel a bit pumped from the more difficult climbing below, it becomes a very serious lead very quickly.

Also, this route (along with Great Imposter) tops out on a leftward-sloping ramp covered with fist-sized rocks, and there is a cache of dinnerplate-sized debris just sitting right under the anchors. Be VERY careful up there not to knock any of this stuff off as you belay, lower, rappel, whatever. Sep 20, 2015

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