Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: Herb Laeger, Eve Uiga, Charlie Rollins
Page Views: 1,606 total · 12/month
Shared By: Jeremy Steck on Nov 11, 2007
Admins: Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


21 Opinions

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Description

Climb the steep right leaning crack to a small tree. Good stances. The crux is near the start.

Location

Right leaning diagonal crack just to the right of Finger Stinger.

Protection

Used to be rated R, but not in the latest guidebook. Moves near the ground are harder to protect, but with modern gear, it protects fine.

Photos

Allison Quirk
San Diego, CA
 
Allison Quirk   San Diego, CA
 
I would rate this climb R, for sure. Placed a critical nut in the lower section to protect crux moves and as I climbed past, I realized the nut was behind a loose chock (did not realize this before). There were no other placements and at this point you're about 15' off the deck with a very bad landing. Be ready to climb 5.9 crux moves with no gear for this one. Mar 26, 2012
Sustained with serious start! A reasonable lead for a climber familiar with Seneca 5.9-5.10. Don't let its reputation keep you from giving it a try! Apr 30, 2012
Andy Weinmann
Silver Spring, MD
  5.9 PG13
Andy Weinmann   Silver Spring, MD
  5.9 PG13
I hesitate to call this 5.9 and not give it a "+". It is quite sustained and lives up to its name, with just one decent rest in the middle. Is any one move harder than 5.9? Possibly. But it is Seneca. There is definitely a "don't blow it here" section which just happens to be in the low crux section. The upper crux is just pure fun.

At the base of the crack/start of crux you can place a #3 C4 which is bomber. The back two lobes will be closed down more than the front two, but each set will be equal which is acceptable.

Awesome route with fantastic moves...unrelenting for sure. Oct 22, 2012