Mountain Project Logo

Routes in North Peak, East Face

Bandito T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bear's Delight T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Desperado T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Finger Stinger T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Great Impostor T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gunsite To North Peak T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Helter Skelter T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Keds T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lichen or Leave It T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lichening Bolt T,S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Nubbin Drubbin S,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Psychoprophylaxis T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Really Flaky T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Roux T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Rox Salt T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Streptococcus T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unrelenting Verticality T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: Herb Laeger, Eve Uiga, Charlie Rollins
Page Views: 1,470 total, 12/month
Shared By: Jeremy Steck on Nov 11, 2007
Admins: Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


24 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Climb the steep right leaning crack to a small tree. Good stances. The crux is near the start.

Location

Right leaning diagonal crack just to the right of Finger Stinger.

Protection

Used to be rated R, but not in the latest guidebook. Moves near the ground are harder to protect, but with modern gear, it protects fine.

Photos

Andy Weinmann
Silver Spring, MD
  5.9 PG13
Andy Weinmann   Silver Spring, MD
  5.9 PG13
I hesitate to call this 5.9 and not give it a "+". It is quite sustained and lives up to its name, with just one decent rest in the middle. Is any one move harder than 5.9? Possibly. But it is Seneca. There is definitely a "don't blow it here" section which just happens to be in the low crux section. The upper crux is just pure fun.

At the base of the crack/start of crux you can place a #3 C4 which is bomber. The back two lobes will be closed down more than the front two, but each set will be equal which is acceptable.

Awesome route with fantastic moves...unrelenting for sure. Oct 22, 2012
Sustained with serious start! A reasonable lead for a climber familiar with Seneca 5.9-5.10. Don't let its reputation keep you from giving it a try! Apr 30, 2012
A Terray
San Diego, CA
 
A Terray   San Diego, CA
 
I would rate this climb R, for sure. Placed a critical nut in the lower section to protect crux moves and as I climbed past, I realized the nut was behind a loose chock (did not realize this before). There were no other placements and at this point you're about 15' off the deck with a very bad landing. Be ready to climb 5.9 crux moves with no gear for this one. Mar 26, 2012