Elevation: 2,203 ft
GPS: 38.835, -79.365 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 44,146 total · 243/month
Shared By: Jeremy Steck on Nov 8, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Andy Weinmann

Description

This is the North side of Seneca that faces away from route 33. It gets sun until around noon (later in summer), however this face is slightly more shaded than the east face of the south peak due to the tree cover in the summer months.  In colder temps, climbs without much shade (Lichen or Leave It, Streptococcus, Desperado, etc) can be really nice if it's sunny.

Most climbs here are just 1 pitch but there are often separate climbs above that you can link up with for a nice way to top out.  Use extreme caution when topping out on the North Peak as there is much loose rock.

There are fewer established descents on this part of the crag in part due to the ease of being able to walk off most climbs once you get to the area around the top of Desperado.  That said, there are established anchors atop Lichening Bolt, Lichen or Leave It, Rox Salt, Nubbin' Drubbin, and Desperado.  Climbs on the upper north end are short enough that they can be rigged for top-roping with gear and/or tree anchors.

 

Getting There

Approach as for the South Peak - East Face by hiking up the East Ridge Trail from Roy Gap Road (standard approach) and take the left to cross the gully and reach the short scramble up onto some small ledges.  Hike left (south) here a bit and round a corner to an intersection at the trail sign (the rescue cache is just down to the left here).  Turn right and follow the trail to the NPEF.  The obvious, clean wall of Lichen Or Leave It will soon come in to view.  

Alternatively, you can hike up the Forest Service tourist trail to the Observation Deck and come down onto the ledges on the east side of Seneca.  The first climbs reached here are around Streptococcus.

30 Total Climbs

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Location: North Peak - East Face Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at North Peak - East Face

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
 5
Heffalump Trap Direct
Trad, TR
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
 31
Roux
Trad 2 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 56
Rox Salt
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 21
Bear's Delight
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 6
The Finger Stinger
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 91
Lichen or Leave It
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 33
Desperado
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 13
Bandito
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 28
Unrelenting Verticality
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 30
Streptococcus
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 10
Great Impostor
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 3
Nubbin Drubbin
Sport, TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 19
Helter Skelter
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 14
Psychoprophylaxis
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
 4
Lichening Bolt
Trad, Sport, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Heffalump Trap Direct
 5
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Trad, TR
Roux
 31
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Trad 2 pitches
Rox Salt
 56
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Bear's Delight
 21
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
The Finger Stinger
 6
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad
Lichen or Leave It
 91
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Desperado
 33
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Bandito
 13
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Unrelenting Verticality
 28
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Streptococcus
 30
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Great Impostor
 10
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Nubbin Drubbin
 3
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, TR
Helter Skelter
 19
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Psychoprophylaxis
 14
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Lichening Bolt
 4
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R Trad, Sport, TR
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