North Peak - East Face Rock Climbing
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|Shared By:||Jeremy Steck on Nov 8, 2007 · Updates|
This is the North side of Seneca that faces away from route 33. It gets sun until around noon (later in summer), however this face is slightly more shaded than the east face of the south peak due to the tree cover in the summer months. In colder temps, climbs without much shade (Lichen or Leave It, Streptococcus, Desperado, etc) can be really nice if it's sunny.
Most climbs here are just 1 pitch but there are often separate climbs above that you can link up with for a nice way to top out. Use extreme caution when topping out on the North Peak as there is much loose rock.
There are fewer established descents on this part of the crag in part due to the ease of being able to walk off most climbs once you get to the area around the top of Desperado. That said, there are established anchors atop Lichening Bolt, Lichen or Leave It, Rox Salt, Nubbin' Drubbin, and Desperado. Climbs on the upper north end are short enough that they can be rigged for top-roping with gear and/or tree anchors.
Approach as for the South Peak - East Face by hiking up the East Ridge Trail from Roy Gap Road (standard approach) and take the left to cross the gully and reach the short scramble up onto some small ledges. Hike left (south) here a bit and round a corner to an intersection at the trail sign (the rescue cache is just down to the left here). Turn right and follow the trail to the NPEF. The obvious, clean wall of Lichen Or Leave It will soon come in to view.
Alternatively, you can hike up the Forest Service tourist trail to the Observation Deck and come down onto the ledges on the east side of Seneca. The first climbs reached here are around Streptococcus.
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