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North Peak - East Face Rock Climbing
Routes in North Peak - East Face
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Bandito T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Bear's Delight T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Christopher Robin T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Desperado T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Desperado Direct T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Exposition T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Finger Stinger, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Great Impostor T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Gunsight To North Peak T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c |
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Heat Lichening T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Heffalump Trap Direct T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Helter Skelter T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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I Dream of Gina T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Keds T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Lichen or Leave It T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lichening Bolt T,S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Nubbin Drubbin S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Oh Pooh T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a |
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Promiscuity T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Psychoprophylaxis T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Question Mark T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Really Flaky T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Roux T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Rox Salt T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Sally's Peril T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Some Things Never Change T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Streptococcus T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Unlimited Sky T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Unrelenting Verticality T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wolery T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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You, Me, and the Buzzard T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
| Elevation: | 2,203 ft |
| GPS: |
38.83537, -79.36542 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 45,529 total · 240/month |
| Shared By: | Jeremy Steck on Nov 8, 2007 · Updates |
| Admins: | Andy Weinmann |
Description
This is the North side of Seneca that faces away from route 33. It gets sun until around noon (later in summer), however this face is slightly more shaded than the east face of the south peak due to the tree cover in the summer months. In colder temps, climbs without much shade (Lichen or Leave It, Streptococcus, Desperado, etc) can be really nice if it's sunny.
Most climbs here are just 1 pitch but there are often separate climbs above that you can link up with for a nice way to top out. Use extreme caution when topping out on the North Peak as there is much loose rock.
There are fewer established descents on this part of the crag in part due to the ease of being able to walk off most climbs once you get to the area around the top of Desperado. That said, there are established anchors atop Lichening Bolt, Lichen or Leave It, Rox Salt, Nubbin' Drubbin, and Desperado. Climbs on the upper north end are short enough that they can be rigged for top-roping with gear and/or tree anchors.
Getting There
Approach as for the South Peak - East Face by hiking up the East Ridge Trail from Roy Gap Road (standard approach) and take the left to cross the gully and reach the short scramble up onto some small ledges. Hike left (south) here a bit and round a corner to an intersection at the trail sign (the rescue cache is just down to the left here). Turn right and follow the trail to the NPEF. The obvious, clean wall of Lichen Or Leave It will soon come in to view.
Alternatively, you can hike up the Forest Service tourist trail to the Observation Deck and come down onto the ledges on the east side of Seneca. The first climbs reached here are around Streptococcus.
Classic Climbing Routes at North Peak - East Face
Sun Angles Details:
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