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Routes in North Peak, East Face

Bandito T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bear's Delight T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Desperado T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Finger Stinger T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Great Impostor T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gunsite To North Peak T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Helter Skelter T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Keds T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lichen or Leave It T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lichening Bolt T,S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Nubbin Drubbin S,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Psychoprophylaxis T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Really Flaky T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Roux T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Rox Salt T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Streptococcus T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unrelenting Verticality T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Buddy Guthrie, Dee Dee Guthrie
Page Views: 2,268 total, 19/month
Shared By: Jeremy Steck on Nov 8, 2007
Admins: Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


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Description

This is a fantastic 5.9! Climb up the face to reach the overhang and then traverse Right to reach a left facing corner (crux). Follow the corner to a large ledge. The traverse to the right is the business and coolest part of the climb. Well protected and exciting!

Location

Find a fairly obvious overhang and left facing corner system as you walk uphill from Great Imposter.

Protection

Hands size gear and smaller.

Photos

Seth Derr
harrisburg, pa
 
Seth Derr   harrisburg, pa
 
update to add as of summer 2015 there are rings around a tree at the top of this route Jun 16, 2015
Andy Weinmann
Silver Spring, MD
  5.9
Andy Weinmann   Silver Spring, MD
  5.9
You can protect the traverse moves under the roof with a blue-yellow offset master cam/tcu or similar. Bomber piece in a flaring crack that has a bunch of chalk on it. You can also plug great gear in the overhang, below and right of the horn.

No maintained rap station at the top. Bring slings & rings for the tree or be prepared to downclimb the last bit of Roux to a set of shuts above Really Flakey (going south) OR downclimbing 5.2ish by a huge pine tree and ledgey area (going north). You could also probably walk-off if you bring your approach shoes up with you. Oct 22, 2012
Couldn't find a placement under the roof, so I ended up clipping the bolt before the traverse that's higher up.

Stellar roof that's a bit of a bear pulling up on with no holds. Definitely a sweet sequence. Next little corner presents some nice finger locks. Sep 16, 2012
C Runyan
Boulder, CO
 
C Runyan   Boulder, CO
 
Great climb. Exciting moves punctuated by great rests. It doesn't look that pretty from below, but it's a whole lot of fun. Jul 21, 2008