Mountain Project Logo

Routes in North Peak, East Face

Bandito T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bear's Delight T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Desperado T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Finger Stinger T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Great Impostor T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gunsite To North Peak T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Helter Skelter T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Keds T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lichen or Leave It T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lichening Bolt T,S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Nubbin Drubbin S,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Psychoprophylaxis T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Really Flaky T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Roux T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Rox Salt T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Streptococcus T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unrelenting Verticality T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Howard Doyle, Lotus Steele
Page Views: 1,054 total, 13/month
Shared By: Seth Murphy on Apr 10, 2011
Admins: Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


20 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Climb the broken face up to a steep right-leaning crack in orange rock. Follow the crack to it's end at a horizontal. Steeper than in looks.

Location

Starts 20 ft left of the end of the North Peak. Look for the obvious crack in the middle of the face.

Protection

Standard Seneca rack.

Photos

In the old guidebook this route has a G rating, but the new book has it at PG, which is probably more appropriate. I thought that the rock quality for the 15 feet below the obvious finger crack is pretty poor. Though the climbing is not difficult (5.6/5.7), falling in that section could be pretty sketchy, as any gear that would keep you from hitting the ground is placed in hollow rock.

That said, this does not feel very hard for Seneca 5.9. I thought the well protected crux was much easier than the hard bits on Back to the Front, Bandito, or Nubiles. Sep 25, 2017
Jeff McLeod  
 
A great route eerily reminiscent of Morning Thunder in Eldorado Canyon. The jams are good.

If you want to put up said top rope, you'll need a decently long cordelette or similar to sling the tree at the top. Sep 21, 2015
Andy Weinmann
Silver Spring, MD
  5.9
Andy Weinmann   Silver Spring, MD
  5.9
Saves its crux for one good punch at the end. Pumpy, but reasonable for Seneca 5.9. May 6, 2013
John Ely
DC
 
John Ely   DC
 
CAREFUL placement of gear. About three years back a woman was killed leading this when her gear pulled and she hit her head. It is steep and close to the hard ground. Nov 9, 2012
Stiff for the grade.

Started at the crack to the left, which I followed up to the horizontal crack to the right that forms the bottom of the "Z". Find placements down low where you can to protect the mid section.

Upper "Z" section is quite a ride and protects well.


[26 March 2016 Post Script: the tree at the top is now hanging on to dear life and is extremely wobbly. You can make a gear anchor at the top and slightly left.] Oct 1, 2012
C Runyan
Boulder, CO
 
C Runyan   Boulder, CO
 
Despite being short, this is a fantastic climb.

This is one of the few climbs at Seneca where you can safely put up a top rope. Beginning leaders should take care, as the crack does a wild zig zag that requires careful placement of gear to avoid rope drag. May 4, 2011