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Routes in North Peak, East Face

Bandito T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bear's Delight T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Desperado T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Finger Stinger T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Great Impostor T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gunsite To North Peak T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Helter Skelter T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Keds T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lichen or Leave It T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lichening Bolt T,S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Nubbin Drubbin S,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Psychoprophylaxis T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Really Flaky T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Roux T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Rox Salt T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Streptococcus T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unrelenting Verticality T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Howard Doyle, Lotus Steele
Page Views: 5,200 total · 41/month
Shared By: Jeremy Steck on Nov 8, 2007
Admins: Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

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51 Opinions

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Description

If you come to the North East face and you can lead Seneca 5.8, this is the climb to do! Climb up to a large ledge and trend Left near a tree. At this point, head back Right to access the beautiful right leaning fingers to hands crack. Gear is a little skimpy to reach the tree (5.6) but from this point on it's G rated.

Location

This is the first obvious route you come to when approaching the North East Face when approaching the East face from Roy Gap road.

Protection

Gear < 2". Nuts and tri-cams are helpful.

Photos

Wes John-Alder
Brooklyn, New York
  5.8
Wes John-Alder   Brooklyn, New York
  5.8
I climbed this route on my first day at Seneca Rocks. What a beautiful picture-perfect line on fantastic rock with gear everywhere.

I linked this climb and the corner pitch above it to the North summit on a single rope-length. What a fantastic view! Apr 11, 2016
Daniel James
Chicago
Daniel James   Chicago
Felt grades were appropriate.

Used a 70m to continue up another climb up the dihedral directly above which goes to another set of rap rings, and again linked a final bit to rings just shy of the summit ridge. All three sets of rap rings look good, can't tell you how much you need to rap down other than a twin 70 will get you down from the very top. The dihedral above this route (has a name, need to consult the book) is a nice little addition. The final pitch/section is great for the feel of topping out to the ridge, but itself is easy climbing with poor protection and low rock quality.

From these rings my partner and I chose to do a summit ridge traverse to the true North Peak summit. There are options on how to do this, I can imagine this traverse being simulclimbed easily. It ranges from 3rd to low 5th class, and we chose to break it into two pitches, finishing through the very end of the large chimney on the east side and then walking the final bit on the east side to the terminus of the hike up. Rock quality is sometimes very poor. We were able to protect the traverse decently enough, but your primary plan should be to not fall and to be cautious about each hold. Nov 28, 2017
Sean Mann  
 
On the starting runout, you can place a shallow cam and later a micronut to avoid a bit of the runout. Still spicy. But definitely worth it for the Seneca 5.8 leader given the quality of the crack up above! Oct 25, 2017
Rocky367
Maryland
Rocky367   Maryland
Realistically a 5.7R for that first portion (the guidebook puts it at 5.5R), no good gear if you miss the moves. Sure, you might be able to avoid the ledge and try to fall towards your left, but you might not. The top part is great though. Nov 3, 2016
Evan Anderson
Boulder, CO
Evan Anderson   Boulder, CO
It's sooo goood! Best rock quality at Seneca? You decide. Oh yeah the traverse at the start is pretty spicy. You can get a marginal placement (small nut or c3). Sep 20, 2013
A bit run out at the bottom to gain the tree, but you can you sew it up there after.

As of 16 September 2012, there is no bee hive with which to contend. Sep 16, 2012
Jeff Bryan
Cortez, co
Jeff Bryan   Cortez, co
Great love it, to me it was hard for its grade as is all of Seneca. Funny thing is people say the same to me about the Platte. So I guess what you know will always be easier Sep 9, 2008

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