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Routes in Shovel Point

A Dream of White Sheep TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
A Study in Scarlet TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Balance of Power TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cornered TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dance of the Sugar-Plump Faeries TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Did Plato Love Trees? T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Ego-itis T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Gold Plated TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Great Barrier Roof, The T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Great Yawn, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Narcoleptic Epic T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Out On A Limb T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rise Over Run TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ross's Crack T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sacred Biscuit TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Soldier of God TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Straight, No Chaser TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Straw House TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tree Route, The TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wake Up and Smell the Coffee TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: Dave Pagel, Rick Kollath?
Page Views: 1,991 total · 15/month
Shared By: Dave Rone on Oct 1, 2007
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

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Description [Suggest Change]

No single crux, just continuous highly-technical stemming in a smooth dihedral. On the lead the pro is solid but sometimes requires patience to find and get in. (and you won't likely be feeling real patient!) Nice spot for a belayer at the bottom of the route. Otherwise, toprope it and just enjoy the moves.

Location [Suggest Change]

About 60' east of the Sugarplump Faeries slab. A good size tree right at the edge of the cliff lies directly above the dihedral.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Mainly RP's to finger size stoppers, a couple larger sizes for the finish. Some very small cams might be helpful.

Photos

TravisMelin
Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
  5.12a
TravisMelin   Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
  5.12a
stinking fun route. Aug 28, 2008

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