Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: FTR: Dave Pagel, Rick Kollath, FL: Dave Rone
Page Views: 2,113 total · 15/month
Shared By: Dave Rone on Oct 1, 2007
Admins: Kris Gorny, chris tregge

You & This Route


11 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

No single crux, just continuous highly-technical stemming in a smooth dihedral. On the lead the pro is solid but sometimes requires patience to find and get in. (and you won't likely be feeling real patient!) Nice spot for a belayer at the bottom of the route. Otherwise, toprope it and just enjoy the moves.

Location

About 60' east of the Sugarplump Faeries slab. A good size tree right at the edge of the cliff lies directly above the dihedral.

Protection

Mainly RP's to finger size stoppers, a couple larger sizes for the finish. Some very small cams might be helpful.

Photos

TravisMelin
Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
  5.12a
TravisMelin   Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
  5.12a
stinking fun route. Aug 28, 2008
Taylor Krosbakken
Duluth, MN
Taylor Krosbakken   Duluth, MN
I was scoping this climb out for gear and found that a 000 C3 did not fit anywhere in the upper crux section, so tiny brassies and ball nuts only. Pretty small cams down low too. I cleaned the climb quite a bit and climbs alright, but needs a lot more cleaning for gear and general dirtiness. Being less than vertical, I think it really gathers the dirt, which is unfortunate because this is a cool climb, just real dirty.

Regarding the FA, it was Kollath and Pagel, but Dave Rone probably has the FFA, as Pagel recently told me they put it up as a TR climb. Dec 19, 2018