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Routes in Shovel Point

A Dream of White Sheep TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
A Study in Scarlet TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Balance of Power TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cornered TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dance of the Sugar-Plump Faeries TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Did Plato Love Trees? T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Ego-itis T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Gold Plated TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Great Barrier Roof, The T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Great Yawn, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Narcoleptic Epic T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Out On A Limb T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rise Over Run TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ross's Crack T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sacred Biscuit TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Soldier of God TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Straight, No Chaser TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Straw House TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tree Route, The TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wake Up and Smell the Coffee TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
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Type: TR, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,997 total · 13/month
Shared By: Ian Harmon on Jun 12, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

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Description

I don't remember there being a specific crux, but I think it was a little harder towards the bottom. At the bottom, staying to the left earns you full 5.9 credit, and a slightly easier variation is found on the climber's right. I remember doing a lot of stemming.
  • RCM&W #11, p.232.

Location

About 15 yards past (east) of Dance of the Sugar-Plump Faeries and about 5 yards before (west) of the trees, the top of this route is located in a dihedral. There is a lot of small loose rock near the top of this route.

Protection

Webbing off trees. Newly installed forest service bolts??

Photos

Burke Minahan
  5.9-
Burke Minahan  
  5.9-
The forest service bolts would have a hard time reaching this route. Use webbing off of 2 nearby trees. Sep 10, 2018

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