Type: Trad, TR, 160 ft (48 m), 2 pitches
FA: Rock Kollath
Page Views: 1,804 total · 9/month
Shared By: Sean Patrick on Jan 29, 2008
Admins: K Ice, Kris Gorny

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

This route has recently been cleaned top to bottom (see below). Start on a 5.9 pitch, and get set up at a belay below the roof. Second pitch is a really cool imposing overhang. Bolts for much of the route, but as below, it sounds like there are a couple of important #1 and a #0.75 cam placements to get through the upper section.
This route is well worth the effort of setting up to toprope, and it is out of character for most of Shovel Point. The moves to get through the roof are classic, and the exit from the roof is a tricky, balancey little sequence.

Location Suggest change

Locate the big overhang below from the top of the cliff, and work your way to the climber's left side of the roof. No routes go directly up the overhang yet, so expect to pull the roof by heading left around it. You should be able to see the intermediate anchors on the face below when you get to the roof, and there will be a line of bolts leading from them.
Take care not to set up to the right of the roof.

Protection Suggest change

TR - make an anchor.
Lead - Some bolts, but not enough. Do some careful scouting, or risk an endless fall on geriatric bolts.