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Routes in Shovel Point

A Dream of White Sheep TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
A Study in Scarlet TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Balance of Power TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cornered TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dance of the Sugar-Plump Faeries TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Did Plato Love Trees? T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Ego-itis T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Gold Plated TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Great Barrier Roof, The T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Great Yawn, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Narcoleptic Epic T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Out On A Limb T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rise Over Run TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ross's Crack T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sacred Biscuit TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Soldier of God TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Straight, No Chaser TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Straw House TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tree Route, The TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wake Up and Smell the Coffee TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: Paul Ross
Page Views: 2,562 total · 18/month
Shared By: Ian Harmon on Jun 7, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

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Description

I have only ever top roped this route from above, but it is also possible to lead it in 2 pitches. The first pitch is reported to be 5.8 and mediocre. For top roping lower about 60 feet to a tree and climb the dihedral stemming your way to the top. There are several old pins within the thin crack, that are about the only protection I remember towards the top if you were leading it.

Location

Ross's crack is in the first dihedral past (east) of the wooden lookout. It is about 10 feet before (west) of Dance of the Sugar-Plump Faeries.

Protection

Standard rack for lead. Webbing for top roping off trees. There may or may not be large park service bolts atop this route.

Photos

USBRIT Ross
Keswick Cumbria.UK
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
Hi Min Climbers at Shovel Point . Just a bit of history on this area of rock . In I think it was 1973/4 I was working for a season at the Outward Bound school in Ely. I was asked to find a climbing area suitable for students on the shores of Lake Superior.I checked out Palisade Head and found this was not suitable for Outward Bound students . When on Baggy I noticed another sea cliff to the east that turned out to be Shovel Point. At that time we had to bush whack to the cliff as there were no paths ,and as with the approach the cliff was completely untouched. Over a period of three weeks with an assistant I spent long days cleaning masses of loose rock from most of the routes along the length of the cliff . This exploration continued between student visits thoughout that summer . Most were established by TR , but when cleaned we led some from the ground up.By the end of the summer we had climbed about 12/14 routes ranging from about 5.5 to 5.10.I remember a very difficult one from the beach area that may have been 5.11? I did leave a detailed topo of the climbs with the OB school , but I expect that is now long gone?.I see by the routes posted on this page ( apart from the one route that is credited to me "Ross's Crack")that Great Yawn ,Dance of the Sugar corner ,White Sheep etc are some of the routes we opened out. Glad to see the crag is still in use .. Paul Ross ....Colorado Jul 26, 2006
Glenn Burns
St. Paul, MN
 
Glenn Burns   St. Paul, MN
 
hey paul

thanks for the small bit of history, i'm glad you posted. if you have time, check out minnesotaclimbing.com... it's the minnesota climbers' online crag :)

ross' crack is on of my all time favorite routes, did you guys actually lead it from top to bottom or just lowered off then lead up?

thanks again!

-=glenn=- Jul 27, 2006
As of 10/7/2006, bolts at the top are still not present. The hole does take a brown tri-cam nicely though. Oct 17, 2006
Floridaputz
Oakland Park, Florida
Floridaputz   Oakland Park, Florida
Paul, great to hear the history from a former OB instructor. I climbed there as a student in 1976. I worked there as a rocks tech with groups from VOBS in the earily 80's. That would be MOBS when you were there (Minnesota OB became Voyaguer OB) Aug 6, 2010
Anchor bolts on top of Shovel Point have been added in the last few years. Burly enough to anchor a barge through the winter. Jun 19, 2014

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