Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: Dave Rone, Dan Wilkinson, Summer 2017
Page Views: 61 total · 38/month
Shared By: Dave Rone on Apr 25, 2021
Admins: Kris Gorny, K Ice

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Temporary Peregrine Falcon access restrictions Details

Description

A lot of stone on this line required a gravity assist to make the transition to talus.  It now climbs and protects decently, but there could still be some loose stuff. For TR ascents you have little choice but to anchor from trees. For the rare lead, a tree at the start makes a convenient anchor.  

Climb mostly 5.7-5.8 crack and face, then as you reach the top, head left below a small overhang. Finish on a very thin crack and face (crux) on the overhang's left side. Just for the fun of it, we also did a finish via a loose, blocky, 5.10+ hand crack that cuts through the overhang...not recommended.

Location

Gravity Assist lies between Ross's Crack and the Sugar Plum Faeries slab.  From above, you can see the short, shallow corner that is on the climber's left side of the overhang.

Protection

Standard lead rack from small cams and stoppers up to #3 Camalot.

Photos