Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,743 total · 37/month
Shared By: Ian Harmon on Jun 13, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, chris tregge

You & This Route

51 Opinions

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A fun climb beginner climb, that is also very leadable. When I lead it I rapped down to a small ledge (maybe 25 ft above the water) and built an anchor and climbed up from there. If you are top roping you can lower all the way down to the water. The route follows a dihedral with a large crack in it and allows for some good jamming.
  • RCM&W #23, p.235.


This route is towards the end of shovel point, maybe 100 yards or so down the trail from Dance of the Sugar-Plump Faeries. This route begins in a dihedral, near one of the many boarded lookouts/rest areas. I'll try to add better beta after my next trip to Shovel Point.


Standard Rack with a few large pieces, I racked to a #4 camalot and felt pro was adequate. Webbing off trees for the TR setup. There maybe be large bolts installed by the forest service atop this route.


The belay was all hanging, we rapped and then set the anchor right as the crack gets to a hand crack. There is a little ledge but like 1 ft. out maybe, not much of a ledge.

The crack is a very odd one. Its about big enough for half your body but not big enough for chimneying.

And yes now there is two humangous bolts on the top of the climb, they are very nice. Nov 12, 2008
Bill Rusk
Duluth, MN
Bill Rusk   Duluth, MN
Very fun lead. At least bring doubles of #1, #2, and #3. You might want a #4 (I ran it out a little). The offwidth is interesting. And it is many thanks to the MN DNR and State Parks that we have those huge bolts, custom made by their engineers. More may be coming! May 11, 2009
Andrew Smith
Minneapolis, CO
Andrew Smith   Minneapolis, CO
Fun route despite the name. Awkward offwidth that beginning climbers should definitely give a try. Make sure you bring plenty of webbing to set up anchors. Oct 13, 2013