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Routes in Shovel Point

A Dream of White Sheep TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
A Study in Scarlet TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Balance of Power TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cornered TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dance of the Sugar-Plump Faeries TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Did Plato Love Trees? T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Ego-itis T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Gold Plated TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Great Barrier Roof, The T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Great Yawn, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Narcoleptic Epic T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Out On A Limb T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rise Over Run TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ross's Crack T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sacred Biscuit TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Soldier of God TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Straight, No Chaser TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Straw House TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tree Route, The TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wake Up and Smell the Coffee TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,690 total · 38/month
Shared By: Ian Harmon on Jun 13, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

You & This Route

51 Opinions

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A fun climb beginner climb, that is also very leadable. When I lead it I rapped down to a small ledge (maybe 25 ft above the water) and built an anchor and climbed up from there. If you are top roping you can lower all the way down to the water. The route follows a dihedral with a large crack in it and allows for some good jamming.
  • RCM&W #23, p.235.


This route is towards the end of shovel point, maybe 100 yards or so down the trail from Dance of the Sugar-Plump Faeries. This route begins in a dihedral, near one of the many boarded lookouts/rest areas. I'll try to add better beta after my next trip to Shovel Point.


Standard Rack with a few large pieces, I racked to a #4 camalot and felt pro was adequate. Webbing off trees for the TR setup. There maybe be large bolts installed by the forest service atop this route.


The belay was all hanging, we rapped and then set the anchor right as the crack gets to a hand crack. There is a little ledge but like 1 ft. out maybe, not much of a ledge.

The crack is a very odd one. Its about big enough for half your body but not big enough for chimneying.

And yes now there is two humangous bolts on the top of the climb, they are very nice. Nov 12, 2008
Bill Rusk
Duluth, MN
Bill Rusk   Duluth, MN
Very fun lead. At least bring doubles of #1, #2, and #3. You might want a #4 (I ran it out a little). The offwidth is interesting. And it is many thanks to the MN DNR and State Parks that we have those huge bolts, custom made by their engineers. More may be coming! May 11, 2009
Andrew Smith
Minneapolis, CO
Andrew Smith   Minneapolis, CO
Fun route despite the name. Awkward offwidth that beginning climbers should definitely give a try. Make sure you bring plenty of webbing to set up anchors. Oct 13, 2013

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