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Routes in Method Area

Backside Crack V0+ 4+
Bicep Method V8 7B
Books for Friends V0 4
Check the Method V8 7B
Crystal Method V8 7B
Expanding Man V9 7C
F**k The Method V6 7A
Give It Up V2-3 5+
Man with no Hands V2-3 5+
Methidone V8 7B
Method Slab V4 6B
No Easy Way Out V3-4 6A+
No Need to Be Gripped V3 6A
No One Knows V6 7A
No Sweat V2 5+
Of Mice & Men V8 7B
Page Master V4 6B
Papilloma V6 7A
Porcupine, The V4 6B
Rio's Crack V5 6C
Terry-dactyl V2 5+
Tribute V6-7 7A+
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Type: Boulder, 10 ft
FA: Tim Kemple?
Page Views: 1,515 total · 11/month
Shared By: Tristan Perry on Aug 20, 2007
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Think expansion. Start sitting with left hand on the arete and the right hand on a good sidepull. Pull up and snag a perfect crimp with your right hand. Bump left hand up the arete. Crouch and dyno for all you're worth to the great jug above. Control the swing and you're in! Push out the mantle, of course.

Location

On left side of a face that's stacked with crimpy problems on the Method Boulder

Protection

Pad for the uneven landing

Photos

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Troy Fauteux
Henniker NH
  V9+
Troy Fauteux   Henniker NH
  V9+
Hard committing moves. Good problem but a little to sharp and scary for me to call this classic. Footage starts at 2:56 youtube.com/watch?v=XDrvY3E… Jul 20, 2016
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
Nice Troy. I'm happy to see that you stuck the dyno with one hand because it's good to know that it goes that way. Every time I hit the lip with one hand the swing is pretty hard to hold, but I can't get the double clutch method to work for me, so it seems like one hand will have to do for me. Crazy swing that way though.

This climb definitely favors the tall. Jul 21, 2016
Ian McAfee
Concord, NH
 
Ian McAfee   Concord, NH
 
I was able to do it with just one hand as well, definitely didn't swing as much as Troy! If you hit the last hold sort of as far down and left as you can it becomes more of a down-pulling jug than a side-pulling jug, which is helpful, if that makes sense. Great problem. Aug 16, 2016

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