Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Method Area

Type: Boulder, 10 ft
FA: Tim Kemple?
Page Views: 1,444 total, 11/month
Shared By: Tristan Perry on Aug 20, 2007
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


9 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Think expansion. Start sitting with left hand on the arete and the right hand on a good sidepull. Pull up and snag a perfect crimp with your right hand. Bump left hand up the arete. Crouch and dyno for all you're worth to the great jug above. Control the swing and you're in! Push out the mantle, of course.

Location

On left side of a face that's stacked with crimpy problems on the Method Boulder

Protection

Pad for the uneven landing

Photos

- No Photos -
Ian McAfee
Concord, NH
 
Ian McAfee   Concord, NH
 
I was able to do it with just one hand as well, definitely didn't swing as much as Troy! If you hit the last hold sort of as far down and left as you can it becomes more of a down-pulling jug than a side-pulling jug, which is helpful, if that makes sense. Great problem. Aug 16, 2016
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
Nice Troy. I'm happy to see that you stuck the dyno with one hand because it's good to know that it goes that way. Every time I hit the lip with one hand the swing is pretty hard to hold, but I can't get the double clutch method to work for me, so it seems like one hand will have to do for me. Crazy swing that way though.

This climb definitely favors the tall. Jul 21, 2016
Troy Fauteux
Henniker NH
  V9+
Troy Fauteux   Henniker NH
  V9+
Hard committing moves. Good problem but a little to sharp and scary for me to call this classic. Footage starts at 2:56 youtube.com/watch?v=XDrvY3E… Jul 20, 2016