Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Method Area

Backside Crack V0+ 4+
Bicep Method V8 7B
Books for Friends V0 4
Check the Method V8 7B
Crystal Method V8 7B
Expanding Man V9 7C
F**k The Method V6 7A
Give It Up V2-3 5+
Man with no Hands V3 6A
Methidone V8 7B
Method Slab V4 6B
No Easy Way Out V3-4 6A+
No Need to Be Gripped V3 6A
No One Knows V6 7A
No Sweat V2 5+
Of Mice & Men V8 7B
Page Master V4 6B
Papilloma V6 7A
Porcupine , The V4 6B
Rio's Crack V5 6C
Terry-dactyl V2 5+
Tribute V6-7 7A+
Type: Boulder
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,208 total, 17/month
Shared By: Ladd on May 11, 2007
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


26 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Start sitting on the trailside of the Method boulder and power your way onto the arete to gain some pinches and tricky footwork. The remainder of the climb is tricky, maybe even more than it looks.

Once you are on top, you ave to jump across the trail to another boulder then downclimb that one.

Location

Trailside of the Method Boulder. Almost to the Scoop boulder.

Protection

Pad and spotter.
Graham O.
  V6 PG13
Graham O.  
  V6 PG13
Awesomely varied climb. Nothing like it in P-Way, that's for sure. Jul 11, 2016
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V7-
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  V7-
Beta, if you want it...footage of this problem starts at 0:13
vimeo.com/51642805 Oct 17, 2012
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V7-
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  V7-
This problem is not easy! Feels closer to v7 to me...

Cooler temps definitely help, especially on the moves up high.

As for the sit, I start with my left hand at the bottom part of the lowest pinch out left (that's all I can reach) and my right hand on a bad crimp out right (below the better right hand sidepull- once again it's all I can reach). It's definitely not an obvious sit start and perhaps that takes away from the quality a bit, but it is substantially harder than starting standing.

I'll second everything Tristan said above. Sep 22, 2012
chris deulen
Castle Rock
  V6-7
chris deulen   Castle Rock
  V6-7
Have the sit start holds broken? I could only find the side pull on the arete...starting matched standing. Mar 31, 2011
BDalhaus
Bangor, ME
  V6
BDalhaus   Bangor, ME  
  V6
The bird nest is gone.

It is also possible to downclimb Stairstep Method (V0) on the backside of the boulder, or even the slab with the assistance of the tree to avoid the sketchy jump-across downclimb option. Apr 2, 2008
This problem is like a harder but equally superb version of Ball Doctor. There's a spanking technical crux at the bottom, and the topout is high and requires focus! Another really great problem that climbs like grit. May 11, 2007
Ladd

 
Ladd    
 
Maybe closed for remainder of '07 season.

There is a bird nest on a key handhold of this climb. DO NOT CLIMB ON THIS PROBLEM UNTIL THE NEST IS GONE. May 11, 2007