Type: Boulder
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,416 total · 17/month
Shared By: Ladd on May 11, 2007
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


29 Opinions

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Description

Start sitting on the trailside of the Method boulder and power your way onto the arete to gain some pinches and tricky footwork. The remainder of the climb is tricky, maybe even more than it looks.

Once you are on top, you ave to jump across the trail to another boulder then downclimb that one.

Location

Trailside of the Method Boulder. Almost to the Scoop boulder.

Protection

Pad and spotter.

Photos

Ladd

  V6
Ladd    
  V6
Maybe closed for remainder of '07 season.

There is a bird nest on a key handhold of this climb. DO NOT CLIMB ON THIS PROBLEM UNTIL THE NEST IS GONE. May 11, 2007
This problem is like a harder but equally superb version of Ball Doctor. There's a spanking technical crux at the bottom, and the topout is high and requires focus! Another really great problem that climbs like grit. May 11, 2007
BDalhaus
Bangor, ME
  V6
BDalhaus   Bangor, ME  
  V6
The bird nest is gone.

It is also possible to downclimb Stairstep Method (V0) on the backside of the boulder, or even the slab with the assistance of the tree to avoid the sketchy jump-across downclimb option. Apr 2, 2008
chris deulen
Castle Rock
  V6-7
chris deulen   Castle Rock
  V6-7
Have the sit start holds broken? I could only find the side pull on the arete...starting matched standing. Mar 31, 2011
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V7-
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  V7-
This problem is not easy! Feels closer to v7 to me...

Cooler temps definitely help, especially on the moves up high.

As for the sit, I start with my left hand at the bottom part of the lowest pinch out left (that's all I can reach) and my right hand on a bad crimp out right (below the better right hand sidepull- once again it's all I can reach). It's definitely not an obvious sit start and perhaps that takes away from the quality a bit, but it is substantially harder than starting standing.

I'll second everything Tristan said above. Sep 22, 2012
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V7-
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  V7-
Beta, if you want it...footage of this problem starts at 0:13
vimeo.com/51642805 Oct 17, 2012