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Routes in Method Area

Backside Crack V0+ 4+
Bicep Method V8 7B
Books for Friends V0 4
Check the Method V8 7B
Crystal Method V8 7B
Expanding Man V9 7C
F**k The Method V6 7A
Give It Up V2-3 5+
Man with no Hands V2-3 5+
Methidone V8 7B
Method Slab V4 6B
No Easy Way Out V3-4 6A+
No Need to Be Gripped V3 6A
No One Knows V6 7A
No Sweat V2 5+
Of Mice & Men V8 7B
Page Master V4 6B
Papilloma V6 7A
Porcupine, The V4 6B
Rio's Crack V5 6C
Terry-dactyl V2 5+
Tribute V6-7 7A+
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Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 681 total · 5/month
Shared By: BDalhaus on Mar 7, 2008
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

A great traversing face climb that sometimes suffers from seepage. Sit start on two crimps with a good left foot (use the upper hold of the two out left). The right crimp used to be bigger, but you only need it to get off the ground. Smear your right foot in the small scoop, pull off the ground and then bump out right to the sloper. Twist your left toe into a toe hook/dropknee and use body tension to cross left hand up to the diagonal edges. Get your feet back underneath you and climb straight up to a hidden jug out right. Topout.

Starting matched on the sloper is V5, awkward, and nowhere near as cool.

Location

This problem is on the face of the Trailside boulder between the Method Boulder and General Lee. Downclimb to the left.

Protection

Pad

Photos

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Tim Waystrong
New Hampshire
Tim Waystrong   New Hampshire
Bad news. The second crimp on the problem has broken. I don't know how, but it was gone when some friends and I were trying it today. Sep 26, 2010
Jeffrey LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey LeCours   New Hampshire  
Damn... that sucks :( I really liked this problem Sep 27, 2010
BDalhaus
Bangor, ME
  V6
BDalhaus   Bangor, ME  
  V6
The broken crimp doesn't change the problem any. Nov 29, 2010
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
How do you start it now? I know you can start it off the sloper at V5 but I though starting off the crimps were way better. Nov 29, 2010
BDalhaus
Bangor, ME
  V6
BDalhaus   Bangor, ME  
  V6
Updated the description for you... Nov 29, 2010
Is this the dyno problem that goes at v3 in Kemple's guide? I remember Keith saying that this is a stiff v3 that stand starts on weirdly placed crimps and hucks to a sloper. Doesn't seem to be the case according to the description. Maybe, I heard him wrong; Keith's Pawtuckaway knowledge is very rarely incorrect! Jul 21, 2016
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V6
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  V6
In this case it is wrong. This is the problem to the right of the v3 you're talking about. It starts in the middle of the face. Jul 21, 2016
Okay, thanks! Aug 7, 2016
Brad Fauteux
Henniker, NH
  V5
Brad Fauteux   Henniker, NH
  V5
What is the v3 called? Blew it on the lip about 10 times. Might be time for a rest day. Oct 4, 2016
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V6
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  V6
It's called, appropriately, 'Give It Up'. Oct 5, 2016

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