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Routes in The Dihedrals

Arete Style Dysfunction S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Arrow, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Billy Tipton T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Black Arete TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Buzz Junky T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cotter's Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Day Tripper T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Devil Won't Care T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Devil's Corner T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Face off in Albania S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fuzzy Tights T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Haggis T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Head Cement T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Juicer, The S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Prepare to meet thy God T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Racing Dog S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Satan's Ceiling T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Thanador S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Trick Bag S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Trojan Elite T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Twin Cracks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 153 total, 1/month
Shared By: Rafiki on Jul 8, 2007
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Unknown Private Land Issues Details

Description

In my opinion, this is the best trad climb in Little Falls. I drove 3hrs+ after work one night just to climb this line. The move over the roof is wild.

Climb a crack to a ledge below a roof. Instead of climbing straight up through the chockstone as for Devil Won't Care, move out left through a flake on the roof (crux).

In the old guidebook, "Satan's Ceiling" climbs the direct face to the left of the crack at 10c. A more difficult climb, but less aesthetic and the pro sucks. I would recommend climbing Devil Won't Care to the roof and moving out the flake as I have described.

Location

This is on the right side of the Dihedrals. Look for a crack capped by a roof about 55ft up. This climb is just right of a laser-cut dihedral known as Devil's Corner 5.11b.

Protection

Protection is excellent, crux is protected. Bring upto a #4BD camalot.

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