Access Issue: Unknown Private Land Issues Details

Description

Be sure to read the access warning, as some routes have been stripped.

The Dihedrals is a perfect example of making do with what you have. In the rock starved NYS Thruway corridor, this crag is your best option for leading and pushing your limits on harder routes. Admittedly, the atmosphere of the crag is horrible, the railroad tracks are very close to the base of the crag. After a recent train derailment, the buffer of trees between the tracks and the crag has been removed. When you can't get to the Dacks or Gunks this crag will fill your fancy though. Climb here enough and you will learn to love the smell of railroad ties and tune out the rumble of passing trains.

In the out-of-print guide for Little Falls, "The Dihedrals" refers to the tallest, right most section of the uninterrupted cliff line on the right side of the abandoned factory. Each section of the cliff was given it's own name. The crag really isn't that big, so today we refer to this entire area as "The Dihedrals".

None of the routes here are more than 65ft in height. While the routes may seem short, they are the some of the longest in Little Falls. Most of the routes are pretty clean with the exception of Cotter's Corner. The rock type is metasyenite, similar to granite, but lower in quality. In some sections of the cliff the rock has a smooth black finish which makes it very hot in the summer. Other sections of the cliff bare a slight resemblance to Keene Valley area crags like The Barkeater Cliff or Pitchoff Chimney Cliff. Overall the rock quality is pretty good, I would take this crag over the popular limestone choss of the Niagara Escarpment any day. Surprisingly, this crag doesn't see much traffic, people would rather spend 20 mins setting up a TR to climb a 20'-tall face on Moss Island.

The routes themselves are diverse, ranging from 5.4-5.12+. The crag has an array of cracks which take great gear on lead. Over the past few years, modern, bolted face climbs have been established. Some of the climbs can be TRed by walking around to the right side of the cliff, others must be lead on bolts or gear. Standard rack to #4 camalot.

Getting There

After getting off the thru-way, turn right on route 5 at the "T" intersection. Make a right onto River Rd. Follow this road until you reach a gate, park at the pull off.

22 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Dihedrals

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 17
Devil Won't Care
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 3
The Arrow
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 7
Twin Cracks
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 4
Devil's Corner
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Devil Won't Care
 17
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
The Arrow
 3
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Twin Cracks
 7
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Devil's Corner
 4
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
More Classic Climbs in The Dihedrals »

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Pablo-Roberts
Prescott, Arizona
Pablo-Roberts   Prescott, Arizona
Hey guys i was just wondering if any one knows if this place is illegal to climb at? i'v heard yes and no, so im just wondering if any one has any information on if its okay to climb there. Also i was wondering if any one could help me find a guidebook for the dihedrals. Apr 26, 2010
AdamB Bunger
Chattanooga, TN
AdamB Bunger   Chattanooga, TN
Apparently there's been some access issues with the crags on the far side of the river (Wind Wall, Tier, Dihedrals, etc. I think last I heard the Dihedrals was under private ownership, but upon obtaining permission and paying a use fee, climbing is still allowed. You might want to confirm that though. As far as getting a guide, you gotta know a guy who knows a guy. You could stay busy for a weekend (or potentially longer depending on how hard you climb) with what's listed on this website. May 9, 2010
Pablo-Roberts
Prescott, Arizona
Pablo-Roberts   Prescott, Arizona
Can any one tell me what routes can be top roped by walking up to the top of the route and then setting the anchors? aka i dont lead climb and wanna know which routes are reach able by walking around and up to the top then setting anchors and rappelling-climbing. Jul 1, 2010
Sarah Crosier
Joshua Tree, CA
Sarah Crosier   Joshua Tree, CA
You can top rope most things here. Satan's ceiling.. twin cracks.. the face to the left of twin cracks which I think is the Daytripper? I'm not really sure. Twin Cracks and the Daytripper have bolts on top too. Satan's Ceiling is really easy to set up with trees for anchors. Aug 3, 2010
Matt Glue
Boulder, CO
Matt Glue   Boulder, CO
Stopped by here for an afternoon this weekend and found out that the owner, Michael, is charging a camping fee of $10/head for access to his property. This goes for both the Dihedrals and the Wind Wall. Please give his cell a call at 315-219-9127 before heading over. He will gladly make the one-minute drive to the parking lot to collect. Not sure what to do if he doesn't answer though... Sep 27, 2010
Justin Sanford
Broadalbin, New York
Justin Sanford   Broadalbin, New York
i have been informed that all of the fixed hardware has been removed from this area due to restricted access, etc. The only previously equipped routes that still have fixed hardware are "Black Arete" and "The Juicer". Jul 10, 2012
Ive been climbing there all spring and fall and all hardwear is still there and in my two years of climbing there ive yet to encounter the property owner. Jun 6, 2013
Wes Ryan
Conifer, Colorado
Wes Ryan   Conifer, Colorado
A very cool crag. Some really unique rock and laser cut corners! Most of the bolts on the many surrounding climbs outside of this main dihedrals area were chopped as of a few weeks ago when I went on an exploratory trip around the area. Also, long shot, but if anyone found Ray Ban sunglasses with green croakies, I lost them around the top of the cliffs, and would love to get them back! May 17, 2015
Benjamin Thompson
Saranac Lake, NY
Benjamin Thompson   Saranac Lake, NY
On the road to the crag, there is a concrete road block. People have driven around it, but it is quite muddy and you would need some sort of high clearance vehicle, not like my ten year old mini van. May 10, 2016