Routes in The Dihedrals
|Arete Style Dysfunction S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c|
|Arrow, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Billy Tipton T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Black Arete TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b|
|Buzz Junky T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Cotter's Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Day Tripper T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Devil Won't Care T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Devil's Corner T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Face off in Albania S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Fuzzy Tights T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Haggis T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Head Cement T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Juicer, The S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c|
|Prepare to meet thy God T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Racing Dog S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Satan's Ceiling T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c|
|Thanador S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Trick Bag S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Trojan Elite T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Twin Cracks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Shared By:||Rafiki on Jul 8, 2007|
Getting weather forecast...
DescriptionThe Dihedrals is a perfect example of making do with what you have. In the rock starved NYS Thruway corridor, this crag is your best option for leading and pushing your limits on harder routes. Admittedly, the atmosphere of the crag is horrible, the railroad tracks are very close to the base of the crag. After a recent train derailment, the buffer of trees between the tracks and the crag has been removed. When you can't get to the Dacks or Gunks this crag will fill your fancy though. Climb here enough and you will learn to love the smell of railroad ties and tune out the rumble of passing trains.
In the out of print guide for Little Falls, "The Dihedrals" refers to the tallest, right most section of the uninterrupted cliff line on the right side of the abandoned factory. Each section of the cliff was given it's own name. The crag really isn't that big, so today we refer to this entire area as "The Dihedrals".
None of the routes here are more than 65ft in height. While the routes may seem short, they are the some of the longest in Little Falls. Most of the routes are pretty clean with the exception of Cotter's Corner. The rock type is metasyenite, similar to granite, but lower in quality. In some sections of the cliff the rock has a smooth black finish which makes it very hot in the summer. Other sections of the cliff bare a slight resemblance to Keene Valley area crags like Barkeater or Pitchoff. Overall the rock quality is pretty good, I would take this crag over the popular limestone choss of the Niagara Escarpment any day. Surprisingly, this crag doesn't see much traffic, people would rather spend 20mins setting up a TR to climb a 20ft face on Moss Island.
The routes themselves are pretty diverse, ranging from 5.4-5.12+. The crag has an array of cracks which take great gear on lead. Over the past few years, modern, bolted face climbs have been established. Some of the climbs can be TRd by walking around to the right side of the cliff, others must be lead on bolts or gear. Standard rack to #4 camalot.
This crag is on private property. CSX owns the tracks you must cross to get to the crag, but they don't seem to care. The actual cliff is owned by an unknown private individual who's policy hasn't been established. No news is good news.
Classic Climbing Routes at The Dihedrals
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season