Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: James Otey, 10/08/10
Page Views: 5,453 total · 55/month
Shared By: James Otey on Oct 8, 2010
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Unknown Private Land Issues Details

Description

Formerly known by the descriptive name Black Arete, Arete Style Dysfunction is perhaps the most stunningly aesthetic and difficult line in Little Falls.

Start by romping up some easy terrain, making the first two clips and then swing around to the right of the arete for a few moves. Make a super tenuous swing back left to the face proper and make a cruxy third clip. From here, the buisiness begins: Use an atrociously small left hand crimp and get a high left foot, eventually bumping all the way up to a small crimp (V7ish in itself). Without resting, mount the second crux by using froggy foot technique on impossibly small holds until the large slopey horizontal can be had (V5/6)...phew! From there the climbing is technical mid-eleven crimping that feels way harder after pulling the difficult, thoroughly pumpy moves down low. Clip the chains and enjoy the uniqueness of Little Falls ambiance...

The line had been climbed before on toprope by a variety of people over the years, but wasn't bolted until September 20th 2010. Two holds broke over the last year, upping the difficulty a notch. The first one is is a left hand crimp in the second crux that got smaller. The second one is the massive rest jug midway up- it's now a sloper that makes resting a lot more difficult. Due to some difficult clips, leading the route is noticeably harder than top roping it.

We can all thank Eric Kuenstner for the genius name...

Location

Smack dab in the middle of the Dihedral's main face.

Protection

8 Bolts. A double draw is helpful on the 2nd clip, and a long sling is helpful on the 3rd clip.
bheller
SL UT
bheller   SL UT
Excellent write up, excellent photos, excellent work! I'd feel lucky to get the first ascent of that beauty! Oct 14, 2010
Why did you change the name? Nov 16, 2010
James Otey
  5.13a
James Otey  
  5.13a
The route climbs significantly differently on the sharp end. Just as first ascentionists of the 'double arete' named the route after it had been freed on lead, I've always been under the impression that leading a route allows one to name it? Like the double arete project, people have always referred to the route by its description (it is a black colored arete) so we named it. But honestly, I don't really care what people call it- it's a beautiful route that deserves to be climbed! Nov 16, 2010