Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,041 total · 8/month
Shared By: AdamB Bunger on Aug 3, 2008
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route

2 Opinions

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Access Issue: Unknown Private Land Issues Details


a good sport lead, although when first done it probably went up on gear (given the 5.10b TR guidebook rating), the face has since been bolted. The guide suggests to layback off the upper crack of Buzz Junky, but the bolts make it possible to aviod this altogether via some thin crimps and lousy feet, adding some spice and maybe a letter grade or so to the route.


On the Amtrak Arete sector. Uses the arete to the left and moves across the face. Located right next door to Buzz Junky.


4 bolts to coldshuts


The bolted anchor has been removed from the top of this climb for some reason. Luckily there's a nice tree on the ledge that can be used to build an anchor.

Also, the perfect buzz junky crack about 6" to the right of some of the face holds makes this climb feel a bit contrived to me. It could be better described (and climbed) as a variation to buzz junky that traverses into the crack from the arete on the left. Nov 13, 2017