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Routes in The Dihedrals

Arete Style Dysfunction S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Arrow, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Billy Tipton T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Black Arete TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Buzz Junky T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cotter's Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Day Tripper T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Devil Won't Care T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Devil's Corner T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Face off in Albania S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fuzzy Tights T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Haggis T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Head Cement T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Juicer, The S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Prepare to meet thy God T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Racing Dog S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Satan's Ceiling T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Thanador S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Trick Bag S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Trojan Elite T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Twin Cracks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 926 total, 8/month
Shared By: AdamB Bunger on Aug 3, 2008
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Unknown Private Land Issues Details

Description

a good sport lead, although when first done it probably went up on gear (given the 5.10b TR guidebook rating), the face has since been bolted. The guide suggests to layback off the upper crack of Buzz Junky, but the bolts make it possible to aviod this altogether via some thin crimps and lousy feet, adding some spice and maybe a letter grade or so to the route.

Location

On the Amtrak Arete sector. Uses the arete to the left and moves across the face. Located right next door to Buzz Junky.

Protection

4 bolts to coldshuts

Photos

aparnas  
The bolted anchor has been removed from the top of this climb for some reason. Luckily there's a nice tree on the ledge that can be used to build an anchor.

Also, the perfect buzz junky crack about 6" to the right of some of the face holds makes this climb feel a bit contrived to me. It could be better described (and climbed) as a variation to buzz junky that traverses into the crack from the arete on the left. Nov 13, 2017