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Routes in The Dihedrals

Arete Style Dysfunction S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Arrow, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Billy Tipton T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Black Arete TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Buzz Junky T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cotter's Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Day Tripper T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Devil Won't Care T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Devil's Corner T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Face off in Albania S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fuzzy Tights T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Haggis T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Head Cement T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Juicer, The S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Prepare to meet thy God T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Racing Dog S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Satan's Ceiling T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Thanador S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Trick Bag S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Trojan Elite T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Twin Cracks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,111 total, 9/month
Shared By: Rafiki on Jul 12, 2007
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Unknown Private Land Issues Details

Description

The best handcrack I've seen in Little Falls! The first 15ft-ish is pure jamming with maybe one outside edge. It gets progressively wider the higher you go.

On my first attempt on this crack I slipped out of a jam low on the climb..my belayer took a #5 camalot to the face from my harness..ouch. The rock also gouged a hole in my knee. Maybe next time..

Location

This route is on the "Tire of Fear" sector.

The best way to access this area is by climbing Prepare to meet thy God (5.7) to a large, grassy ledge. Scramble up to the cliff band, this is the Upper Tier. This climb is located on the right side, just right of Trick Bag (5.11b sport)

Protection

Gear is good. BD#1-2 for the bottom. I can't tell you about the top..wide.

Photos

go right under the small roof on the right at the top of the perfect crack for a nice well protected 9+ called risque shift,straight up from the perfect crack(top of arrow)is commiting with marginal pro but not that difficult. Oct 26, 2012
Sean Nelb
Indian Creek
Sean Nelb   Indian Creek
This route protects well with nothing bigger than a #3 Camalot. Beautiful line. Aug 6, 2007