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Lever Action (not Downdraft)
5.11d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 2.8 from 64
votes
Routes in The Sno-Cone Cave
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A Stirring of Air S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Achilles S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Air Patrol S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Bling It On S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Brenna S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Doctor's Orders S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Dry Doctor (aka Buzzworm) S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Duck A Day S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Durban Poison S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Fluff Boy S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Footlong S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Joey Ninja Superstar S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Just the Tip S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Lever Action (not Downdraft) S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Mariscos Lambada (aka Zorba) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Moment Musical S 5.14a/b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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No Risk No Fin S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Not High but on Heels S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Peaceful Revolution S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Pistola S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Pump Action S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Rehab S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Straight Man S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Suck It and See S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Thug Wife S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Wedding Streak S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Wet Nurse S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Winter's End S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Bill Gibson, Chris Knuth, and Helmut (from Austria) |
| Page Views: | 3,164 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | D F on Jun 28, 2007 |
| Admins: | Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This is basically the route to the right of Mariscos Lambada with two variations to get to the big roof crack (I think the left is harder and on better rock). Neither are harder than 5.10 to get to the roof and there are also two sets of anchors there.
Once you're standing on the ledge under the business, lean out to the crack (exciting). Flip around and get crankin on this fun, airy boulder problem. The anchors are just after turning the lip.
To me, this feels like an easier and less-scary version of Yosemite's Separate Reality (11d), but the guidebooks have always called this 12a.
Downdraft was the first "5.12" I ever laid eyes on when I was 13 years old, toproping the 5.8 on this wall. I saw some burly looking dudes falling off of it, and thought that it would be amazing if I was ever able to consider climbing something that hard. Not too long ago I climbed this route barefoot -- but I still get a flutter in my heart when I rack up for it! For me, Downdraft has remained the psychological epitome of 5.12a.
If it was more sustained, and not so out of the way, and such a biatch to clean, it would be classic. However, on a hot, crowded morning, it can sure be a lot of fun.
As far as the FA info, my friend Bill said he bolted the three lines in this particular section back in the day, but that the first guidebook gave credit to someone else and assigned different route names. He said he bolted Mariscos Lambada (I forget his name for it) for his wife and daughter.
Once you're standing on the ledge under the business, lean out to the crack (exciting). Flip around and get crankin on this fun, airy boulder problem. The anchors are just after turning the lip.
To me, this feels like an easier and less-scary version of Yosemite's Separate Reality (11d), but the guidebooks have always called this 12a.
Downdraft was the first "5.12" I ever laid eyes on when I was 13 years old, toproping the 5.8 on this wall. I saw some burly looking dudes falling off of it, and thought that it would be amazing if I was ever able to consider climbing something that hard. Not too long ago I climbed this route barefoot -- but I still get a flutter in my heart when I rack up for it! For me, Downdraft has remained the psychological epitome of 5.12a.
If it was more sustained, and not so out of the way, and such a biatch to clean, it would be classic. However, on a hot, crowded morning, it can sure be a lot of fun.
As far as the FA info, my friend Bill said he bolted the three lines in this particular section back in the day, but that the first guidebook gave credit to someone else and assigned different route names. He said he bolted Mariscos Lambada (I forget his name for it) for his wife and daughter.
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