Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Mike Schneiter
Page Views: 420 total · 6/month
Shared By: Michael Schneiter on Oct 23, 2012
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


67 Opinions

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Description

Climb steep, orange rock with the hardest moves at the beginning. This direct start is best started from the top of the dagger of rock at the base. it is also possible to avoid the direct start and start in a crack with broken rock on the left. Starting from here is a fine option on towrope or you will probably want the second bolt pre-clipped if doing so on lead. This lefthand start is more in the 5.9 range.

Ample rests and large holds characterize the rest of the climb which ends below the large roof.

This reclaimed route takes the upper path of a previously bolted route and was straightened out and cleaned up to provide for a new moderate route in an increasingly popular, moderate zone.

Location

It is on the far right of the section of wall with the Sno Cone moderates. Look for a sharp dagger of a rock protruding from the ground below the steep, direct start. It is left of the two short, slabby moderates.

Protection

10 bolts and anchor.

Photos

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davedad
Carbondale, CO
  5.10a
davedad   Carbondale, CO
  5.10a
Direct start is hard if you are less than 6 feet tall. Aug 18, 2013
No longer the 1st route after Pistola. Aug 30, 2013
Luke Bertelsen
Tucson, AZ
 
Luke Bertelsen   Tucson, AZ  
 
There are a silly number of "X" marked holds on this thing - denoting loose holds. One is roughly the size of a microwave. Glue or a crowbar are in short order. There isn't really anywhere to go for the belayer if some of those holds start to fly. Jun 9, 2016
Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
  5.10a
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO
  5.10a
I hear ya about the X-marked holds. The big block wouldn't move with a 3 foot bar, but I know it looks questionable. A hold up high worked loose last summer and now has an X on it, although it's kind of "puzzle pieced" in there. I'll go over this route again with the bar and maybe some glue, probably in the next week. Jun 20, 2016
Luke Bertelsen
Tucson, AZ
 
Luke Bertelsen   Tucson, AZ  
 
Thanks, Michael! Jun 21, 2016