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Routes in The Sno-Cone Cave

A Stirring of Air S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Achilles S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Air Patrol S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Brenna S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Doctor's Orders S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dry Doctor (aka Buzzworm) S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Duck A Day S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Durban Poison S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fluff Boy S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Footlong S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Joey Ninja Superstar S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lever Action (not Downdraft) S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mariscos Lambada (aka Gook-a-nook?) S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
No Risk No Fin S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Peaceful Revolution S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pistola S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pump Action S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Rehab S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Straight Man S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Suck It and See S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Wedding Streak S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Winter's End S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: John Bissel
Page Views: 187 total, 1/month
Shared By: Hank Fisher on Jul 4, 2002
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

The route starts just to the right of Mariscos Lambada directly over a block at the base of the cliff. The crux of this climb is definitely at the start. This makes getting to the second bolt a mental challenge because of the almost certain fall onto the block if missed. The bolt spacing on the route is not for the faint of heart, but if you are going to climb at Rifle....

Protection

7 bolts to a two bolt anchor.

Photos

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davedad
Carbondale, CO
  5.10
davedad   Carbondale, CO
  5.10
Mike,
You did not miss anything. The start of that thing is polished, hard, and heinous. I have studiously avoided it now that Mike Schneiter added the much better Air Patrol start. Do the awesome lefthand start to this and leave the glassy sandbag for someone else. Jul 9, 2014
Mike Humphries
Arvada, CO
  5.11a
Mike Humphries   Arvada, CO
  5.11a
Perhaps I was climbing this thing wrong, but I found the start to be quite hard. I had to bear down hard on a small, incut crimp to get established above the roof on poor, sloping, and polished feet. Tough for easy 5.10, that move alone the way I did it is easily 5.11. Jul 7, 2014
Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
 
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO
 
I think the start is the crux on this thing for sure, and there are at least three ways to start this thing. Two different ways at the top of the block and the third way is to start on Brenna, clip the first bolt, and traverse right. I think this is the easiest, and most enjoyable, way to do this climb and makes it more like a real 10a instead of hard 10a or whatever people want to call it. Jun 26, 2012
Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
 
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO
 
All of the lead bolts and the anchor bolts were replaced on this last year with hardware from the ASCA. Several bolts were moved to make this a much better lead. Enjoy!

Also, the name should be "A Stirring of Air" with two r's, not one. Jun 26, 2012
nate post
Silverthorne
  5.10b
nate post   Silverthorne
  5.10b
This was the hardest 5.9 I have ever done. I almost didn't get the on-sight, and I can usually on sight 5.11a. But this was also my first time climbing in Rifle, so I expected it to be hard but Holy sandbag Batman. The following day I did a handful of 5.10s that I thought where a lot easier. Apr 20, 2012
Looks like at least one hold has broken off low, making this significantly harder - definitely harder than the 10c to the right. Jul 17, 2006
The rap anchors need to be replaced on this route. Just as difficult as the .10c to the right? Mar 14, 2004
How come I only found 6 bolts? Hence the scarry run out to the anchors. Sep 3, 2003