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Routes in The Sno-Cone Cave

A Stirring of Air S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Achilles S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Air Patrol S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Brenna S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Doctor's Orders S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dry Doctor (aka Buzzworm) S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Duck A Day S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Durban Poison S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fluff Boy S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Footlong S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Joey Ninja Superstar S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lever Action (not Downdraft) S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mariscos Lambada (aka Gook-a-nook?) S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
No Risk No Fin S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Peaceful Revolution S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pistola S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pump Action S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Rehab S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Straight Man S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Suck It and See S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Wedding Streak S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Winter's End S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Sport
FA: Matt Samet, Ryan Sappenfield
Page Views: 2,695 total · 13/month
Shared By: Pinklebear on Nov 5, 2001
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Fluff Boy climbs directly out the center of the Sno-Cone cave and features a hard boulder problem at the start (now avoided by going right and grabbing the footholds—meh) and a cruxy lip encounter. Fortunately, the holds are biggest where the route is steepest, making it much more do-able than it looks from below.

The "Cyclops" hold is natural, believe it or not. I just added some sika to keep it on there.


10-12 quickdraws.


George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
Wow, it looks impossible yet it's only 5.13b?? I'll be right on it! NOT! ;-) Nov 6, 2001
As of this last summer this thing is a 15 foot wide chalk streak, speckled with shiny black grease dots. I'm sure it was gorgeous at the time of the first ascent. May 4, 2002
Adam Holmes
Adam Holmes  
This weekend I replaced the long velcro sling, which I assume must have been there for more than a few years, maybe since it's inception. It's about the same length and has velcro on it just like the old sling. I replaced the draw after hearing my friend describe falling and ripping through an old Petzl draw on Zulu. If that happened on Fluff Boy you would crater. Sep 16, 2002
Matt has one of the best eyes for lines I've ever seen. Mar 14, 2004
skinny legs and all
Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
skinny legs and all   Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
Bobbi Bensman made the first female ascent in July 1994, making her the third American woman to redpoint 5.13c. Dec 12, 2013
Will Sharp
Breck, CO
Will Sharp   Breck, CO
I think that by climbing out right at the beginning and skipping the lower crux is not only cheating but lame. You're missing the full route if you go right! Oct 17, 2016

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