Type: Sport
FA: Matt Samet, Ryan Sappenfield
Page Views: 2,712 total · 13/month
Shared By: Pinklebear on Nov 5, 2001
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


20 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Fluff Boy climbs directly out the center of the Sno-Cone cave and features a hard boulder problem at the start (now avoided by going right and grabbing the footholds—meh) and a cruxy lip encounter. Fortunately, the holds are biggest where the route is steepest, making it much more do-able than it looks from below.

The "Cyclops" hold is natural, believe it or not. I just added some sika to keep it on there.

Protection

10-12 quickdraws.

Photos

George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
Wow, it looks impossible yet it's only 5.13b?? I'll be right on it! NOT! ;-) Nov 6, 2001
As of this last summer this thing is a 15 foot wide chalk streak, speckled with shiny black grease dots. I'm sure it was gorgeous at the time of the first ascent. May 4, 2002
Adam Holmes
  5.13b
Adam Holmes  
  5.13b
This weekend I replaced the long velcro sling, which I assume must have been there for more than a few years, maybe since it's inception. It's about the same length and has velcro on it just like the old sling. I replaced the draw after hearing my friend describe falling and ripping through an old Petzl draw on Zulu. If that happened on Fluff Boy you would crater. Sep 16, 2002
Matt has one of the best eyes for lines I've ever seen. Mar 14, 2004
skinny legs and all
Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
skinny legs and all   Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
Bobbi Bensman made the first female ascent in July 1994, making her the third American woman to redpoint 5.13c. Dec 12, 2013
Will Sharp
Breck, CO
 
Will Sharp   Breck, CO
 
I think that by climbing out right at the beginning and skipping the lower crux is not only cheating but lame. You're missing the full route if you go right! Oct 17, 2016