Moment Musical

This is another one of Rifle’s more bouldery and overlooked 5.14s. Despite the lack of traffic, Moment offers some of the best thuggy movement in the canyon with a heinous crux down low (thanks to a broken hold) and 5.13 endurance up high. This route reminds me of a blue-collared version of Waka Flocka.

Start by climbing the easy pillar as for Fluff Boy. Before the intro crux of that route, head left out the steeper-than-it-looks wall. From bolt 2 until a stance below the roof up high, this thing is all power. Fight through multiple hard reaches down low, then a comfortable pocket sets up a brutal crux. I broke a key gaston here but was able to figure out cooler (albeit much harder) beta revolving around maybe the worst pinch I’ve used in Rifle. Fight here to gain a few jugs and eventually a good rest. Recover, and sprint over the pumpy roof, then don’t blow the final V6 boulder problem on the headwall below the chains.

This is one route left of Fluff Boy and right of Dry Doctor. Begin on the first bolt of Fluff Boy, then head left out the roofs.

11-13 QDs, and there are no permadraws. A long draw helps for the bolt over the roof.