Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Mike Schneiter
Page Views: 922 total · 13/month
Shared By: Michael Schneiter on May 26, 2013
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


81 Opinions

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Description

This is a new route with steep climbing on gray limestone. It has technical moves below the steepest section and a delicate move right to a good hold with an easier finish.

Location

This is the next route right of Wedding Streak. Look for the glue-in bolts and fixed draws on the steep route in a gray streak.

Protection

5 glue-in bolts and anchor.

Photos

Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
  5.11b
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO
  5.11b
Just getting this added quickly as a placeholder and to potentially avoid any confusion because of the new routes. Will update shortly as well as improve the beta on Doctor's Orders and Rehab, two more new routes in the Sno Cone. May 26, 2013
D-Storm
  5.11a
D-Storm  
  5.11a
Though very short, the climb is worthy with two very fun sequences on good rock. It is not 5.11, however. While the sequences are tricky, they are separated by a bomber rest. I would call this benchmark 10d and a good primer for breaking into the harder climbs. Also, the cable draws seem silly for such a simple route. Perhaps this was set up to build confidence for new leaders? Mike, aside from the cable draws, thank you for adding some fun climbing to the wall here. Jul 28, 2013
D-Storm
  5.11a
D-Storm  
  5.11a
I climbed this again the other day and felt that this route is indeed 5.11a. I still think 5.11b is too generous – if a route is barely more than three bolts long, it has to be pretty hard to be 5.11 and it has to have high quality rock to be worthwhile, which it is. (Edited this comment regarding the star rating, as my opinions continue to evolve.) Aug 14, 2013
davedad
Carbondale, CO
 
davedad   Carbondale, CO
 
Climbs more like a hard boulder problem (if you are weak like me anyway). Super fun - on you from the first few moves. 11b feels right to me, though it is short. A big block came off to the right of the second bolt yesterday. No key holds, but a basketball bounced off the ground and shattered. Remember Johann and always wear a helmet in the canyon. (Yeah, I know it's not the cool guy, sport climber thing to do, but it sure looks better than a Traumatic Brain Injury.) May 20, 2014