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Routes in The Sno-Cone Cave

A Stirring of Air S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Achilles S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Air Patrol S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Brenna S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Doctor's Orders S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dry Doctor (aka Buzzworm) S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Duck A Day S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Durban Poison S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fluff Boy S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Footlong S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Joey Ninja Superstar S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lever Action (not Downdraft) S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mariscos Lambada (aka Gook-a-nook?) S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
No Risk No Fin S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Peaceful Revolution S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pistola S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pump Action S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Rehab S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Straight Man S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Suck It and See S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Wedding Streak S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Winter's End S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Sport
FA: Jerad Friedrichs. Equipped by Bill Gibson.
Page Views: 1,105 total · 18/month
Shared By: Jerad Friedrichs on Aug 6, 2013
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Pump Action is a superb new extension to Lever Action. This route was bolted by Bill Gibson and was graciously offered as an open project during the 2013 Rifle Climbers' Festival.

Pump Action continues past the anchors of Lever Action climbing the impressive headwall on beautiful blue and gray limestone. Unlike many extensions in Rifle which are short, bouldery, and desperate, Pump Action extends for an additional 7 bolts. This route has a definite crux where body language will help you unlock it more than just pure power!

Protection

7 bolts from the Lever Action anchors, the crux bolt has a permadraw. There are chain anchors. Use a 70m to lower or rap twice with a 60m at Lever Action's anchors.

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D-Storm
  5.12b/c
D-Storm  
  5.12b/c
A 60-meter rope is exactly enough to lower from the top. This is a good route on quality rock that will likely clean up and get even better with time. The bolts are very close together, and there's no move that's very hard for a 12c* grade, so this might be a good project for someone who wants to break into harder 5.12s in RMP; I could see it being a good primer for Extended Family in the Ruckman Cave, for example. Just be careful not to Z-clip!

  • Jerad, I think I used different beta that you did – there's a hidden crimp in a key spot....
Sep 8, 2013
Jerad Friedrichs
Colorado Springs
 
Jerad Friedrichs   Colorado Springs
 
That's awesome. I figured the route would beta down with more ascents. Dave Pegg and I both thought somewhere in the 12c vicinity. To my knowledge, there's still been less than 10 ascents, but I think we have all used different beta. I used a hidden undercling in the middle of that column on the left with my left hand and turned my right hip into the wall so I was almost facing out left, and this allowed me to reach up to the good edge on top of the column. I know what you mean with almost z-clipping. I found it hard to clip the permadraw, because it was so close into my chest. So, on the send, I skipped the bolt below and just clipped the permadraw. Sep 8, 2013
Good job sending Pump Action, everyone! Jerad, you are so psyched, thanks for posting! Lever Action/aka-Downdraft/Pump Action - this could this possibly be the only line in Rifle with 3 names and 3 separate pitches?
The extension is a line I rapped down in 1993 then later wished I had bolted it. Although, last spring, Dave Pegg replanted the seed when he told me it was an open permit project just waiting for a dim-witted masochist, like me, to work on it. Oct 7, 2013

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