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Routes in Parking Lot Rock - West

Batwings T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Batwings Direct S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Behold T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Delay of Game S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
No Parking T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Norma's Book T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pave Paradise T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Road Rage T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Solo Mission T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Solstice S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Suburban Sprawl T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Suprise T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 787 total, 6/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Jun 19, 2007
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

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Description

This route is a fun hidden gem that does not see a lot of traffic. If you are bored with climbing the same old routes, check this one out.

Scramble up a short pitch of 5.2-4 to a large belay ledge below the LF corner. Climb the overhanging corner with liebacks and stems. The lieback section is protected by a #4 BD micro nut, so make sure you have a good directional so that you don't zipper your gear in a fall. Place a blue alien at the lip, and crank to the easier climbing above.

Location

The crux corner is the obvious LF corner high on the right side of the wall.

Protection

Gear to 1 inch for the route, a #3 camalot is helpful for the anchor.

The two smallest ballnuts are useful for a directional at the start of the climb.

Photos

Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
 
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
 
A nice way to approach this is to climb batwings, and then find the rap station for "Pave Paradise". That puts you on the large midway ledge which you traverse 100ft to the start of this route. After which you can rap PP again to with a single 70m. May 5, 2015