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Routes in Parking Lot Rock - West

Batwings T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Batwings Direct S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Behold T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Delay of Game S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
No Parking T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Norma's Book T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pave Paradise T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Road Rage T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Solo Mission T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Solstice S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Suburban Sprawl T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Suprise T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,482 total, 12/month
Shared By: Tony B on May 7, 2007
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

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18 Opinions

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Description

A good climb and pretty well protected. Perhaps a good lead for entry-level trad climbers. THe route includes some slab, some jamming and some vertical face. The route finding is straight-forward and the top out has good gear.

Location

This climb starts up a mixed crack system just right of the Bat Wings Direct variation and climbs into the left-facing corner system. When in doubt, 2/3 of the way up, go slightly left. This is the case until the top, where it goes up and sharply right in a slabby corner.

Protection

A standard Rack with some longer slings.

Photos

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Hendo Henderson
Denver, CO
  5.8
Hendo Henderson   Denver, CO
  5.8
Yeah, you do have to be creative building an anchor at the top. I vaguely remember using a #3 and #2?

If you go left at the top, the rope drag does get pretty bad. BUT, the climbing is very easy and safe. It's a 5.4 ramp or so that's probably on 20ft long. Plus the overhanging crack that the above commentor went up looked way too intense for this feeble climber. The rope drage is definitely why this route doesn't get more stars! The two bulge sections are a lot of fun!

Oh! We rappelled off with a 70m. But be careful pulling your rope from the anchors. Our rope got wicked stuck, had to reclimb the route. Pull way to the right to prevent our fiasco. Jun 18, 2013
Aerili
Los Alamos, NM
 
Aerili   Los Alamos, NM
 
The top-out of this route was confusing to me. It seemed if I went far left, I would get a lot of rope drag. So I chose to go straight up some steep, overhanging cracks. They offered protection but were really quite strenuous, more like 5.9, although engaging. I wanted a warm-up... be careful what you wish for, ha ha! May 13, 2013
Kiri Namtvedt
Minneapolis, MN
 
Kiri Namtvedt   Minneapolis, MN
 
Once you've gone to the right at the top your anchor will probably require a large cam or some creativity. (I had to provide creativity). Also, the crux is around the 2/3rds point where you trend slightly left. Jul 6, 2010