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Routes in Parking Lot Rock - West

Batwings T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Batwings Direct S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Behold T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Delay of Game S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
No Parking T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Norma's Book T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pave Paradise T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Road Rage T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Solo Mission T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Solstice S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Suburban Sprawl T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Suprise T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 160 ft
FA: Reid, Dowdle (bolts: Dan and Pat Sperlock)
Page Views: 7,018 total, 43/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Jul 24, 2004
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

You & This Route


227 Opinions

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Description

This route is the north most route on the west face. It can be reached by climbing up a flake (by a nice tree) to an obvious ledge. Whereas the 1st bolt is kind of high it is not hard to climb there and once clipped the protection is not lacking. Climb up the City of Rocks (pocketed edged) face past 11 bolts on this nice fin. Very straight-forward climbing with only the odd technical move thrown in.

Protection

11 draws and 2 more for your chains. Also either 2 ropes are needed or you can hike to the south end of the buttress for 2 80-foot rappels.
Mark Says
Aspen, CO
 
Mark Says   Aspen, CO
 
5.7 if you take the obvious jugs to your left after halfway up. 5.8 if you stay on route, with an excellent belay ledge at the top. I was up there with another climber on Batwings and neither of us felt comfortable going off anchor to scramble to the south end. It might have looked worse than it was but I'd recommend rapping. Sep 29, 2017
Kevin Heckeler
Upstate New York
  5.7+
Kevin Heckeler   Upstate New York
  5.7+
There was one move that made me pause near the top, lots of good thoughtful climbing throughout. Don't know where the 5.8 move was though. And I'm not particularly good on slab. Aug 11, 2017
Spinners galore as of June 2016. Seems like a good candidate for bolt replacement. Jun 21, 2016
Idaho Bob
McCall, ID
  5.8
Idaho Bob   McCall, ID
  5.8
60 does NOT make it down to belay spot on Norma's. Need a 70. Jun 8, 2015
SThal
Logan, UT
 
SThal   Logan, UT
 
I'm fairly sure that we made down into Norma's Book with one 60m. Jun 6, 2015
EthanC
 
EthanC  
 
If you are not used to granite/slab, the first (and second, for that matter) bolt can feel very scary. Making friction moves with decking potential is just not my cup of tea I guess. Although I heard you can make a rap off the south side, it's some pretty exposed scrambling to get there, I'd recommend the two rope rappel down the face if possible. Jun 17, 2014
Daniel Nelson
Jackson, WY
 
Daniel Nelson   Jackson, WY
 
This is a long slab climb start to finish. If you are not comfortable on slab, it will probably feel much more intimidating than 5.8 (as it did to me the first time I climbed it). Great training, however, if you need to become more comfortable on friction routes. Oct 29, 2013
S.Lee
 
S.Lee  
 
Good route, solid 5.8 climbing the whole way. As mentioned before the runout is only near the first two bolts after that it is well protected. Sep 1, 2013
BJ Sbarra
Carbondale, CO
 
BJ Sbarra   Carbondale, CO
 
An 80m rope is perfect for this thing, no rapping into the gully shenanigans needed. Aug 6, 2013
Matt Schroer
Logan, Utah
Matt Schroer   Logan, Utah
For a 5.8 clip up, this takes a beautiful line. I really enjoyed the movements over this arete. Jun 23, 2013
Blitzo
 
Blitzo  
 
Another fun route. I've done this a few times. More like 5.7. Aug 23, 2010
The first bolt really is quite high but the climb is easy to get there. Most of the bolts (all but one) were spinners. Fun climb though. May 29, 2009
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.8
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.8
Nice route with small run-out between fist and second bolts - 11 in total plus chains. Good rock, fun moves a definite must if you're at the base. Aug 14, 2007
46and2
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.8
46and2   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.8
Very fun route and pretty easy to get to the first bolt; lucky for you there are now about 4 new bolts that did not used to be there so the runout is not too bad! Must Do! Jul 16, 2006
You can get off this with a single 70m rope into the "gully" climber's right of the route. - BJ Sbarra Oct 4, 2005
Cristina Amat
  5.8
Cristina Amat  
  5.8
I used 13 quickdrawat the end big rope drag nice route first bolt quite high nice route nice chain stand for putting your rope meanwhile you belay up your partneryou need 2 ropes for rappel down Aug 2, 2004