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Routes in Parking Lot Rock - West

Batwings T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Batwings Direct S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Behold T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Delay of Game S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
No Parking T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Norma's Book T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pave Paradise T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Road Rage T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Solo Mission T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Solstice S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Suburban Sprawl T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Suprise T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Sport, 95 ft
FA: Dave Bingham / Lisa Horowitz
Page Views: 1,167 total · 33/month
Shared By: dave bingham on Jun 22, 2015
Admins: grk10vq, Mike Engle

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26 Opinions

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Description [Edit]

(5.9d) - Ten bolts to chain anchor. This is a bolted direct version of the R/X rated "Suburban Sprawl". (The lower crux sections of "Suburban" are unchanged) , Start on the boulder pile just right of "Norma's Book". Climb the vague rib past a horizontal crack (optional 1" gear placement). Above the crack, clip bolt then step left on a ledge, then up crux balance move to easier climbing.

This is a nice, bolted, direct version of Suburban Sprawl, which doesn't effect or change the lower crux sections of Suburban Sprawl.

Location [Edit]

Right of Norma's Book and left of Batwings.

Protection [Edit]

Quickdraws. Optional 1" gear past 3rd bolt. Can be done with one 70m rope. Anchor can be accessed via 5.5 traverse from near the top of Norma's Book.

Photos

RKM
Alpine, Utah and Almo, Idaho
 
RKM   Alpine, Utah and Almo, Idaho
 
I believe this new route from Dave Bingham will be an instant classic. It's in a great location, nice routes around it, perfectly setup bolts and hard/tricky climbing to a chain anchor.

It's really good! Jul 19, 2015
KimSt  
This route cannot be done with a 60 m rope. We used a 70 and barely had any rope left over. Other than that its a great climb! Sep 29, 2015
dave bingham  
 
Kim - thanks for the comment re: rope length. Solstice does require a 70 meter rope to get off - as do many routes at COR. Oct 7, 2015
C Hopwood
Salt Lake City, UT
 
C Hopwood   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Depends on your definition of classic. It's really just a one move wonder and an awkward one at that. The location, however, ensures that it will certainly be one of the most popular routes in the city. Great eye for putting in that line, Dave. Get on it before the crowds descend! Apr 17, 2016
Luke Dunklee
Albuquerque, NM
  5.10a
Luke Dunklee   Albuquerque, NM
  5.10a
We were able to lower to the top of the boulder pile (under Norma's Book) with a 60m. It was a Sterling rope, however, and may be cut long, so YMMV. Definitely knot the ends and have a 2nd rope available if you're trying to make this work.

We were also morons and forgot our ropes in the bushes after chucking them off the ledge during our departure. If you found them and are feeling generous, feel free to send a PM. Jul 11, 2016
dave bingham  
 
I noticed some unenlightened individual took the grey painted lowering biners from the anchor. Lame. Hopefully a time will come when people understand the concept of fixed gear! It would be great if someone replaced the lowering biners ... Aug 23, 2016

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