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Routes in Parking Lot Rock - West

Batwings T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Batwings Direct S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Behold T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Delay of Game S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
No Parking T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Norma's Book T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pave Paradise T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Road Rage T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Solo Mission T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Solstice S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Suburban Sprawl T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Suprise T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, Sport, 140 ft
FA: D. Bingham, 1987
Page Views: 936 total, 7/month
Shared By: Tony B on May 4, 2007 with updates
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

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Description

A good route with some good climbing, but some detractors as well. Climb up a crack with some gear placements to reach cleaner, more solid rock. This section is easy and pretty safe overall. Continue up and slightly left past a horizontal break (large cam possible) and then higher and more right towards a dark patch. A psychological crux (5.9, R) is here. Continue up and left to clip an old bolt and past the 'true crux' (anti-climactic) and on to the top of the rock...
Mostly good climbing, mostly moderate.

Location

This route is on the face to the Right of Norma's Book and left of Batwings, just left of the rounded arete. Look hard to see a few bolts up there that may help you find the way. The route starts as for Batwings, cutting left at the horizontal crack, rather than right.

Protection

A standard light rack, but don't plan on placing too much or it. I also got a large cam in (4.5 camalot) in a horizontal as advised by the book, but I'm not sure it was worth taking. There are 2 bolts on the route- one is below the crux, the other above. The higher one seems unneeded with the easier climbing and available gear, and the lower further from the crux than I would have preferred.

The route Solstice (5.9d) joins the route above the Suburban Sprawl crux, and the upper part is no longer "R" rated. The lower half of the route retains it's spicy flavor.

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The description is off. The route starts as for "Batwings", cutting left at the horizontal crack, rather than right. I would not describe this crack section as "indistinct and so-so rock".

The route "Solstice" (5.9d) joins the route above the "Suburban Sprawl" crux, and the upper part is no longer "R" rated. The lower half of the route retains it's spicy flavor. Jun 22, 2015
RKM
Alpine, Utah and Almo, Idaho
 
RKM   Alpine, Utah and Almo, Idaho
 
I think this is one of the best routes in upper 'City'. The climbing is cool. If the first bolt were below the crux moves, instead of above it, it would be very popular and take a lot of the heat off of Batwings and Delay of Game.

I like committing routes, but if you blow the hard move below the first bolt, the results would really hurt. Jul 12, 2012
Ben Folsom  
 
This is a really nice route with a few sections where you have to make a few committing moves a little bit above your gear. Super fun. I brought a set of cams and a set of nuts and used a selection. Jul 10, 2008
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.10- R
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.10- R
Two bolts. Can protect two different horizontal cracks using 3" & 1" cams the bulge (crux) is easier if you move slightly left. I'm not sure if that's cheating or not. Aug 14, 2007