Type: Trad, Sport, 140 ft (42 m)
FA: D. Bingham, 1987
Page Views: 1,488 total · 9/month
Shared By: Tony B on May 4, 2007 · Updates
Admins: GRK, Eric Bluemn, Mike Engle

You & This Route


10 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
-none-
Access Issue: Due to COVID 19, please be respectful of the residents of Almo. Wear a mask when indoors at places like Rock City or the Visitor Center. (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) No trash cans. (3) Highlining temporary ban in place for CIRO and CRSP Details

Description

A good route with some good climbing, but some detractors as well. Climb up a crack with some gear placements to reach cleaner, more solid rock. This section is easy and pretty safe overall. Continue up and slightly left past a horizontal break (large cam possible) and then higher and more right towards a dark patch. A psychological crux (5.9, R) is here. Continue up and left to clip an old bolt and past the 'true crux' (anti-climactic) and on to the top of the rock...
Mostly good climbing, mostly moderate.

Location

This route is on the face to the Right of Norma's Book and left of Batwings, just left of the rounded arete. Look hard to see a few bolts up there that may help you find the way. The route starts as for Batwings, cutting left at the horizontal crack, rather than right.

Protection

A standard light rack, but don't plan on placing too much or it. I also got a large cam in (4.5 camalot) in a horizontal as advised by the book, but I'm not sure it was worth taking. There are 2 bolts on the route- one is below the crux, the other above. The higher one seems unneeded with the easier climbing and available gear, and the lower further from the crux than I would have preferred.

The route Solstice (5.9d) joins the route above the Suburban Sprawl crux, and the upper part is no longer "R" rated. The lower half of the route retains it's spicy flavor.

Photos

- No Photos -