Avg: 2.4 from 8 votes
Routes in Parking Lot Rock - West
|Batwings T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Batwings Direct S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Behold T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Delay of Game S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|No Parking T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13|
|Norma's Book T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Pave Paradise T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Road Rage T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Solo Mission T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Solstice S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Suburban Sprawl T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R|
|Suprise T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Type:||Trad, Sport, 140 ft|
|FA:||D. Bingham, 1987|
|Page Views:||936 total, 7/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on May 4, 2007|
|Admins:||grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle|
DescriptionA good route with some good climbing, but some detractors as well. Climb up a crack with some gear placements to reach cleaner, more solid rock. This section is easy and pretty safe overall. Continue up and slightly left past a horizontal break (large cam possible) and then higher and more right towards a dark patch. A psychological crux (5.9, R) is here. Continue up and left to clip an old bolt and past the 'true crux' (anti-climactic) and on to the top of the rock...
Mostly good climbing, mostly moderate.
LocationThis route is on the face to the Right of Norma's Book and left of Batwings, just left of the rounded arete. Look hard to see a few bolts up there that may help you find the way. The route starts as for Batwings, cutting left at the horizontal crack, rather than right.
ProtectionA standard light rack, but don't plan on placing too much or it. I also got a large cam in (4.5 camalot) in a horizontal as advised by the book, but I'm not sure it was worth taking. There are 2 bolts on the route- one is below the crux, the other above. The higher one seems unneeded with the easier climbing and available gear, and the lower further from the crux than I would have preferred.
The route Solstice (5.9d) joins the route above the Suburban Sprawl crux, and the upper part is no longer "R" rated. The lower half of the route retains it's spicy flavor.
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