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Routes in Parking Lot Rock - West
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Batwings T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Batwings Direct S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Behold T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Delay of Game S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Giggles T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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No Parking T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Norma's Book T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Pave Paradise T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Road Rage T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Solo Mission T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Solstice S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Suburban Sprawl T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Suprise T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Duane Ackerman 2016 |
| Page Views: | 1,522 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | zoso on Oct 11, 2016 |
| Admins: | GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) No trash cans. (3) Highlining temporary ban in place for CIRO and CRSP
Details
(1) The area, crags, and routes just north of the Twin Sisters are on private land and the landowner recently posted no trespassing notices at the gated road/trail to the area. Any access of these areas and routes is trespassing. The area was closed by the landowner due to trespassing, illegal camping, fires & trash, and disregard of owner's privacy.
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Description
Best done in 1 push from the ground. Great route that'll surely get more popular. More fun and varied then Delay of Game I thought.
Location
Immediately left of the approach tree to get up to Delay of Game, Norma's, etc.
Can be TRed with an 80m, cause we all have one of those these days (winky winky).
Get down in 2 raps even with a 70m.
Can be TRed with an 80m, cause we all have one of those these days (winky winky).
Get down in 2 raps even with a 70m.
Protection
Clip 3 bolts to the first set of chains. Keep going up and left placing smaller gear (nuts/cams to 1") in a super juggy crack. Keep an eye out for the next bolt on the headwall to your right instead of continuing up this crack system. Clip it and pull the fun little 5.8 roof/jug move. Clip a few more en route to the chains. Good exposure for the grade and good eye for a new line. Thanks DA.
2 Comments