Type: Trad, 180 ft
FA: Lowe
Page Views: 4,770 total · 27/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Jul 24, 2004
Admins: grk10vq, Mike Engle

You & This Route

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This climbs the obvious crack-in-a-chimney just south of Delay of Game. It starts as an easy chimney, but transitions into a nice crack/face climb (depending on your desire). Stemming, jamming, dropknees, face climbing is all utilized on this gem. It eats all sorts of protection. When one achieves the top head south (right) to the anchors.


A standard rack will suffice on this route. However, a 60 meter rope is recommended. 2 ropes are useful for the rappel, or you can hike to the south of the formation for 2 1-rope rappels.


Nathan Fisher
St George
Nathan Fisher   St George  
A 5.6 in the old Bingam book and a 5.5 in the new book. Is it getting easier or could it be that he is mistaken. A 5.7+ might be a little high, (not worth disputing) but a 5.5, give me a break. Jul 26, 2004
John J. Glime
Salt Lake City, UT
John J. Glime   Salt Lake City, UT
Okay... how about a happy medium? 5.6 it is then... actually, I don't remember it being that hard, but it was fun. This climb will forever live in my memory, however, as during my lead, making my way up through the wide chimney... stemming and such... a rat stuck its face out and looked me in the eye, I nearly lept off as that was my gut reaction... I am not a fan of rats as it is, but to come face to face during a rock climb, I hope to never have happen again. Okay, 5.6+ if you see the rat! Aug 4, 2004
vincent pierce  
No way is this route a 5.5! New leaders beware if you have a book that calls it a 5.5. I'd say it's a hard six. There are two fairly steep sections, one near the middle and one at the top. Still, u have a lot of positve holds and plenty of places for pro. A grreat climb if you have lead a couple pitches before. Aug 6, 2004
Gotta agree...no 5.5....but probably an old school 5.6d..haha. I jumped on this years ago, as a new leader, and worked hard. All there though! Jul 4, 2005
Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
I think its rated at most, 5.6. I'd have no issue if the route was rated 5.5, though. Jun 6, 2006
Matt Richardson
Longmont, CO
Matt Richardson   Longmont, CO  
This was my wife's first trad lead. I thought it was an excellent route for the grade (I would definitely call it 5.6) - climbing is varied and maintains your interest. Jun 19, 2006
Kiri Namtvedt
Minneapolis, MN
Kiri Namtvedt   Minneapolis, MN
5.6 for sure, and utter fun the entire way. Always surprising, but always featured. Loved it. Jul 6, 2010
I overlooked this route for years - finally did it. I would say it's one not to miss! Thing is killer and uses all the techniques... 5.5, umm... well, put it this way, I was expecting a 5.5 and was taken a bit off guard by how hard it was. Sep 2, 2010
santa clara, utah
jeffozozo   santa clara, utah
This is an amazingly cool climb that is wonderfully varied in what it requires to climb it. I'd say the crux moves at the top are 5.7 though. There are great holds and you can stem to put in gear, but there's even an bit of an overhanging section.

Some beta:

Climb up on the ledge to belay by using the wide trough next to a big tree growing out of a crack. You'll know the tree because everyone else has used it to climb up, and its bark is worn smooth. If you climb up on to the ledge, and you can't see the climb all the way to the top, then you are in the wrong place.

There is a tunnel at the bottom of the climb. If you want to go through the tunnel you can toss your rope over the top and then pull it back down through and tie in to save some rope drag. The second then has to go over the top (which is equally cool).

There is a great place to build an anchor where you can watch your 2nd right at the top of the last steep section. It is below the last notch that leads to the top of the formation. From this spot, you can easily traverse around the face to the north, to the anchors for Delay of Game, which are on the face, at about the same level. Climbing up the last 15' through the notch doesn't help you, unless you are going to go up and walk across the top of the parking lot rock to rappel off of one of the other climbs.

The gear is great and really varied--you can use all kinds of things. If you are trying to be sparing, we found that we used mostly medium sized pieces and large nuts. There are also several opportunities to sling features. Use long runners on the pieces at the bottom. We used small and medium cams to build the anchor.

Two 50 meter ropes gets you back down to the ledge from the anchors on Delay of Game -- knot the ends, it's 50 meters exactly. A single 70 would require you to down climb about 30 feet. (We measured). Sep 23, 2012
Hendo Henderson
Denver, CO
Hendo Henderson   Denver, CO
Fantastic route. A little bit of everything, and lots of choices. Want to attack the near vertical hand crack dead-on, go for it. Want to face climb to the left. Do that instead if you want...Great climb. Definitely worth doing if everything else is busy. Jun 17, 2013
Gresham, OR
DIAN   Gresham, OR
no 5.5....likely closer to 5.6...uncomfy slopped belay station...easy to get rope stuck when pulling. not a good first lead. I found it awkward and not that enjoyable...it is all there if you search. Jun 27, 2014
Sarah Lydecker
Hood River, OR
Sarah Lydecker   Hood River, OR
Exceptionally varied route. It feels as if someone just looked at the rock, saw an assorted collection of features, cacti, and rats nests in the corner and decided they would call it "Norma's Book"

As a brand new leader, I found the variety and 185' height to be intimidating and nerve-wracking, but I'm looking forward to coming back to this route next summer. Jan 12, 2016
sclair   SLC, Ut
I really enjoyed this route, especially when I thought it was 5.5 and I was moving over steep terrain. Maybe hard 5.6 or easy 5.7 but well protected and fun movement. Apr 24, 2017
Luke Loeffler
Luke Loeffler  
Missed the anchor at the very top and used the anchor to Delay of Game which I wouldn't recommend without a directional. Very fun, varied route though Jun 4, 2017