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Routes in Square Ledge (Pinkham Notch)

Brain, The TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chimney, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Joe's Place T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Nose, The TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Practice Session T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Prize, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Standard Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Thriller Arete T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown (Left of Practice Session Right of The Brain) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
White Face, The T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Type: Trad, 130 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Bill Putnam, Brooks Dodge, 1943
Page Views: 3,335 total, 26/month
Shared By: James Otey on Jun 5, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

HISTORY: The FA of this route was done in 1943 by Bill ("William Lowell") Putnam and Brooks Dodge in 1943. (Brooks was the son of Joe Dodge, who ran the AMC's Pinkam Notch camp from its inception in 1922 to 1959 [1928-1959 as Manager of the Hut system]), probably (?) just before Bill went to Camp Hale, Colorado to train the 10th Mt Division. Bill would later take part (as a Pvt.) in "removing" the Japanese from Kiska Island (Alaska) the only US territory Japan occupied during WWII. Here his climb to the volcanic high point of the island took a bit longer than anticipated and resulted in AWOL, the "punishment" for which was to lead the entire company up as a training exercise the next day. During action in Italy in 1945 with 10th Mt. Division he took shrapnel to the chest (lungs) and missed the action at Riva Ridge and Mt Belvedere, but (now as a First Lieutenant) took part in the final push into northern Italy. After the war he would make the 2nd ascent of Mt St Elias in Alaska, lead many trips to the Adamant-Austerity range in the Selkirks of British Columbia, and serve as both President and Honorary President of the American Alpine Club.

Climbing up the middle of three cracks on the main face, Standard Route is a classic. Though it can be done in one push, most prefer to break it up into 2 pitches. The first belay is usually about 2/3 of the way up the face on a small ledge. This allows the belayer to always be within sight of their leader.

One can choose to either follow the crack system to the summit, or use the massive face holds. Either way, engaging climbing awaits all the way to the summit- just play it to your strengths.

Location

Standard Route starts on the far left of Square Ledge by a prominent corner leading up the the middle of 3 fingercracks. Anchor to one of the two Birches.

Protection

Standard Route will pretty much take anything you have on your rack. It protects quite well using anything from wired nuts, to aliens, all the way up to the blue camalot. Needless to say, your standard Catherdral rack will work famously.

Photos

Jay Morse
Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
Jay Morse   Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
This wall is probably the best beginner trad area in New Hampshire. As long as you know how to build trad anchors and bring your second up, grab your shiny new rack and get on this thing! Though there are some separate named routes here, this wall is really a giant choose your own adventure with tons of possible ways to climb to the top, and you really can't find your way onto anything hard or without protection possibilities no matter what you do (Except maybe way left). Jun 12, 2017
Very nice place to set up a top rope for beginners, very easy and great surroundings. Should be possible for anyone, my uncle who hasn't climbed in 20 years flashed this with boots on. May 22, 2017
Fun, nice climbing. But incredibly easy. Never felt challeneged, even given the 5.4 rating. Jul 3, 2014
Mike McLean
  5.4 PG13
Mike McLean  
  5.4 PG13
Did it in a single pitch; went to the tree way back then extended my belay to the side of the cliff to bring up my second who hauled our sneakers.

I'm not 100% sure I actually did the correct route because there are options all over ... but it was fun and the quality of the rock superb. May 22, 2013
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
I think the f/a was in 1943 Dec 15, 2010
Adam Wilcox
Candia, NH
 
Adam Wilcox   Candia, NH
 
I suspect it was led before cams were invented but after pitons fell out of fashion... Oct 27, 2010
Gabe K
Denver, CO
Gabe K   Denver, CO
Does anyone have any thoughts as to whether this could be led using only nuts, or at least only passive pro? Thanks. Oct 27, 2010
Wondering if I started this in the right spot. Had to climb up about 20 ft before I could place my first piece. Most of the rest seemed good for pro though and the climbing was easy and fun. Great view at the top. Definitely a pretty long route though (130' I think guidebook said), don't plan on lowering if you do it in one pitch! Jul 26, 2010
rdlennon
New Hampshire
  5.4
rdlennon   New Hampshire
  5.4
It's fun to walk up towards the ledge behind a family or camp group, then solo Standard Route while they take the hiker's trail around. They never fail to show utter bewilderment. Oct 10, 2008
T. Moon
 
T. Moon  
 
Square Ledge is a fun crag to visit, especially for beginning leaders. This route was my first real trad lead. It is always much cooler in Pinkham Notch than down in the N. Conway area so it is a nice refuge on those sticky summer days. Beware of large crowds of summer campers and climbing school students! Jun 9, 2007