Elevation: 2,350 ft
GPS: 44.257, -71.246 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 23,988 total · 150/month
Shared By: James Otey on Jun 5, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

Description

The premiere crag of Pinkham Notch sadly goes under the radar for many ambitious trad climbers. An excellently varied plethora of trad and toprope routes from 5.4 to 5.12 are just waiting to be climbed, but they are not noticed nearly as much as their big brother, Cathedral Ledge. Square ledge is never completely deserted, though traffic is thin compared to other flagship crags in northern New Hampshire. At times in the summer, however, it can get quite crowded, as it is a popular crag for group functions. Though hikers wont hinder your climbing in any way other than asking lots of questions, they often hike to the top of the ledge for its excellent views of the Presidential Range and Tuckermans Ravine.

Because Square Ledge is largely surrounded by trees, one can almost be certain of finding a nice shady spot while still being able to watch the day's proceedings.

Square Ledge is quite unique in terms of rock type. It features a horizontally running schist, mixed in intermittently with strips of quartz. The schist provides excellent friction for the feet, yet the crimps are not too sharp as one would imagine- still pleasantly positive though.

With an excellent variance of routes ranging all the way up to 5.12b, square ledge is a great crag to bring new climbers for toproping, or intermediates looking for their first traditional lead. Square ledge also provides a great opportunity to challenge oneself on hard routes that don't fit the traditional mold. At two pitches and 130 feet, Square Ledge also makes for a memorable first multi-pitch. The views and atmosphere are wonderful, and the approach isn't that long.

Getting There

West of route 16, Square Ledge is easily seen from the parking area at the AMC center in Pinkham. After finding a spot in the huge parking lot, cross route 16 to find a well defined trail. Follow it across a wooden bridge until you reach an intersection. Turn left, following the sign to Square Ledge. After about 20 minutes of moderate hiking, the trail will deposit you at the base of the main face: the 130 foot section on the far left side of the Ledge.

12 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Square Ledge (Pinkham Notch)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 52
Standard Route
Trad 2 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 66
The Chimney
Trad
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 32
The Prize
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 20
Joe's Place
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 22
The Brain
TR
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 21
Thriller Arete
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Standard Route
 52
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad 2 pitches
The Chimney
 66
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
The Prize
 32
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
Joe's Place
 20
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
The Brain
 22
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c TR
Thriller Arete
 21
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
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