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Routes in Square Ledge (Pinkham Notch)

Brain, The TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chimney, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Joe's Place T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Nose, The TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Practice Session T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Prize, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Standard Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Thriller Arete T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown (Left of Practice Session Right of The Brain) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
White Face, The T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Type: Trad
FA: Brooks Dodge & others 1943
Page Views: 2,518 total, 20/month
Shared By: James Otey on Jun 5, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


55 Opinions

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Description

Right of Thriller Arete, One will find an obvious chimney that slowly constricts all the way to the top. Scramble up to the base where face holds and a handcrack on the left provide easy climbing to the 5.5 crux near the top. Though slightly slabby in nature, The Chimney will bestow you with a hefty payload of positive feet and hands. Makes for a great first trad lead- will take pretty much any protection all the way to the top.

Location

The obvious chimney system in the upper right portion of the crag.

Protection

Medium to large cams and nuts- standard rack.
Jay Morse
Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
Jay Morse   Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
I don't understand how the gorgeous finger crack that shares the start with this route isn't in the guidebook or on MP, but it goes at 5.9-5.10ish and is probably the best climb at Square Ledge. It's very well protected, though placing gear can be a little pumpy.

The Chimney would be the perfect first trad lead for someone just getting into it. Jun 12, 2017
Very easy. I would even put this at 5.2 or 5.3. Kind of a letdown in that sense, but an interesting rock feature and worth doing if you are there. May 28, 2014
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
  5.4
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
  5.4
Fun! Very easy til the top of the route. Easily protected exit. May 20, 2012
T. Moon
 
T. Moon  
 
Fun little climb. A great beginners lead. Jun 9, 2007