Avg: 2 from 29 votes
Routes in Square Ledge (Pinkham Notch)
|Brain, The TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Chimney, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Joe's Place T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Nose, The TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Practice Session T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Prize, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Standard Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c|
|Thriller Arete T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Unknown (Left of Practice Session Right of The Brain) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|White Face, The T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c|
|Type:||Trad, 130 ft|
|FA:||Brooks Dodge & Mary Backus 1944 as TR. led later|
|Page Views:||395 total, 4/month|
|Shared By:||rdlennon on Nov 10, 2008|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall|
DescriptionHistory: The FA was made in 1944 by Brooks Dodge and Mary Backus.
The Prize ascends the far left side of the main face, about 20 feet left of Standard Route. Following a thin crack system most of the way, the climbing is a little less fun and varied than that on Standard Route. However, this climb is still worthwhile, especially given it's ideal position above scenic Pinkham Notch.
Begin climbing at the base of the buttress, right where the hiking trail hits the rock. Navigate easy terrain around a bush. Continue with more difficulty up the discontinuous crack system, but using mainly face holds. Either establish an awkward belay at half height or keep going. The crux is a slight bulge in the slab as the climber nears the top. Move up this steeper section with scant protection making easy but balancy moves. Alternatively, break right into Standard Route at around 80 feet. Gear and tree anchor at top.