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Routes in Square Ledge (Pinkham Notch)

Brain, The TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chimney, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Joe's Place T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Nose, The TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Practice Session T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Prize, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Standard Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Thriller Arete T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown (Left of Practice Session Right of The Brain) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
White Face, The T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Brooks Dodge & Bill Putnam, 1944
Page Views: 252 total, 2/month
Shared By: rdlennon on Oct 10, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

Admin's NOTE: I'm not sure where the "somewhat vegetated" crack is on the description (as posted) below, but this climb takes the right-most line on the main face, at times even using the arete as a handhold. Done in this manner, the route is at least equivalent in quality to the Standard Route and The Prize. The crux is getting off the ground, especially if you are short, although there is some 5.4-5.5 climbing up by the upper crack(s).

Joe's Place is an unlikely route up the far right hand side of the main face. Starting at the overhang between the Standard Route start and Thriller, pull out left towards an arete on good holds until it is possible to move around the corner onto a slab. You now face a somewhat vegetated, slightly overhanging crack that appears to be much harder than 5.6. Using some hidden face holds, make strenuous moves past the crack and an inconvenient bush. Continue more easily along discontinuous cracks with ample face holds, right along the top of the spectacular, arcing Thriller Arete. Finish towards the top of Standard Route.

This route is of a much lower quality than Standard Route. The moves are less fluid, the line less obvious, and some parts are dirty. However, the cruise along the top of Thriller is spectacular, and it might even be possible to set up a toprope for it from a point on Joe's.

Location

Tackles the rightmost crack system on the main face.

Protection

Pro is sparse during the first bouldery section, but afterwards the route takes good nuts. Gear is slim right at the top, so move left for a solid gear anchor.

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