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Routes in Square Ledge (Pinkham Notch)

Brain, The TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chimney, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Joe's Place T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Nose, The TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Practice Session T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Prize, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Standard Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Thriller Arete T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown (Left of Practice Session Right of The Brain) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
White Face, The T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 162 total, 2/month
Shared By: Matt Meuse on Nov 16, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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This climb is just left of Practice Session and and right of the Brain. It is a not so obvious fissure\finger crack that is not listed in the Guide book.

Finger lock and face climb your way to the top. Can walk off the cliff from the top or set up a TR anchor (Can't remember if it is gear or small trees), lower and belay the second.


About 20 feet left of Practice Session


Standard Trad Rack (Small - Mid Range Cams)


Dan Felix
Dan Felix  
Currently listed as a 5.7, my limited experience (so take this for what it's worth) tells me it's harder than that- at least a 5.8, more likely a 5.9. Granted I don't have a lot of crack experience, but the holds don't amount to much- especially at the beginning. About 10' off the ground it gets better, and towards the top it does get dirty. Sep 2, 2012